We’re quite proud of both our Chinese and Singaporean heritage. We’re also big believers in connecting to culture through cuisine. A belief that we (happily) exercise very often.
While there are no shortage of Chinese restaurants in Singapore, those that have a well-thought out beverage program are few and far between. Food is almost always the emphasis, which takes out half the equation to happiness, in our book.
So it seems fortuitous that our friends at Nutmeg and Clove have opened a new restaurant-bar, called Zui Hong Lou (醉红楼).
Reviving the Past
This isn’t the first incarnation Zui Hong Lou. In its previous life, it was a dimsum restaurant, located opposite its current premises on Club Street. The brand new place focuses on modern Chinese cuisine instead, with no prawn rolls or char siew buns in sight.
We started off with a Kopi Gin Tonic ($13++), which is exactly what it sounds like. Roast coffee with the bitterness of tonic and slight herbal flavours of gin. It doesn’t sound like it would work, but the components blend surprisingly well. It inherits a light char from the kopi roast, yet also retains a refreshing acidity. With the sour and bitter elements in balance, the drink works well as a long sipper that one can enjoy through the meal. The chrysanthemum garnish is a nice touch; it adds a floral and herbal dimension that pairs superbly with the roast coffee.
The food was suitably delicious too. We started off with the Braised Pork Belly Bao ($9++ for 2). Juicy chunks of tender braised pork sandwiched in a toasted bun “shell”. It fuses the traditional Taiwanese pork belly bun and the Shanghainese pan-fried pork buns (生煎包), but also adds a slight sour edge to cut the fat and balance the flavours. The buns are served with equally tasty fried lotus root chips that provide a satisfying crunch. The price is also a wickedly-affordable $9 for the huge portions.
Speaking of buns, we also enjoyed the Spicy Dumplings ($7++). Pork and cabbage dumplings are served with the chilli and vinegar already added. While Singaporeans are familiar with the Taiwanese rendition of the xiao long bao, 小籠包, Zui Hong Lou’s take is slightly different.
The skin is a little thicker to encase the delicious soup juice in the bun, which gives it a more chewy texture and makes it feel more substantial, but less fresh. On the bright side, we foresee less premature breakage of the dumplings (and subsequent disappointment). If you’re not a fan of vinegar (which we’re not) or chilli, request for it to be served on the side.
Kung Pow Baby Octopus ($8++) was also delicious. Grilled baby octopus, caramelised apples and pickled carrots are coated with a layer of kung pow jus. Like its poultry counterpart from Sichuan, the combination of spices, cooking wine and dark soy sauce gives it a sweet-savoury-tangy flavour. The texture, however, makes for an interesting contrast. The octopus’ bounciness added proved to be an effective medium to deliver the delicious sauce.
The middle courses
At this time, even the longevity of the Kopi G&T was tested, and we were served a Nanhai Margarita ($16++). A tipple consisting of Espolon Bianco tequila, smoked plum, Cointreau-infused roasted green tea, lime juice and rimmed with Szechuan salt. We found that the cocktail, while perfectly drinkable, was a little too sweet and heavy on the lime for our tastes. It did serve, however, as an excellent palate cleanser for all the spicy fare we were wolfing down.
We found the Soupy Clams($16++) enjoyable (and beautiful, as our cover picture shows), but had a few elements that marred it for us. New Zealand white clams, mixed herbs, and caramelised Sichuan black beans were added to a thick pork broth. We had no complaints on the clams, which were fresh, sweet and juicy, nor the soup, which was rich, savoury and wholesome. However, the pork lard pieces in the soup were charred a little too far, which gave it a burnt flavour that we did not like.
If we were a little disappointed with the clams, the Ma Po Tofu ($7++) won us back. Unlike the average rendition of the dish, Zui Hong Lou’s silken tofu is actually silken. The tofu’s smoothness is paired with a spicy-savoury glaze and providing a tantalising contrast in texture and flavours. Absolutely delicious and well worth its very reasonable asking price.
The Whole Fish Asian Style ($28++) is also quite the steal, with a set price under 30 bucks for fresh fried fish (a tongue twister, though).
Our favourite dish had to be the Yang Zhou Fried Rice ($8++), which hits all the right notes. The dish is fried perfectly; the light charred wok hei rises from the bowl like a marvelous cloud of flavour. The rice grains are toasty, with the moisture drained from the inside, but with all the juicy flavours of fried Chinese sausage and lard coating every sumptuous grain.
And then, dessert
Of course, no meal is complete without dessert. The Breakfast Club ($16++) could be considered to be a dessert cocktail. Mount Gay Eclipse, Averna-infused coffee, kaya oat milk, evaporated milk and- most importantly- egg yolk come together to form an Asian take on a flip. If that sounds familiar, it should; it’s a typical Singaporean breakfast of kaya toast, coffee and eggs- in liquid form.
The creamy texture is luxuriant, yet it walks the line perfectly and is neither syrupy or cloying. It has the sweet flavours of kaya, caramel and rum, but backs it up with bitter coffee that rounds out the cocktail. Really good.
Finally, we enjoyed the Peanut Paste Soup ($8++), which we think of as a deconstructed tangyuan or ah balling. The peanut paste is separated from the glutinous rice balls, becoming something of a sauce. Just as well- the paste is concentrated, and can be a little too sweet to sup straight from the bowl. The fried balls are excellent. Crisp on the outside, but soft and oozing with black sesame or peanut on the inside.
Summing it all up
We’d say that the food and drinks at Zui Hong Lou are pretty good. While we didn’t like everything, many of the dishes are excellent; the Ma Po Tofu and the Yang Zhou Fried Rice in particular stand out. Both the Kopi Gin Tonic and the Breakfast Club are excellent drinks to match the food.
What we like most are the prices. With most of the dishes coming in under $10, a meal at Zui Hong Lou will come at a bargain. It’s pretty hard to go wrong. We’ll certainly be returning for food and drinks soon.
A Tale of Three Cities
If you’d like to try the food at Zui Hong Lou for yourself, there’s an event coming up that might provide a good opportunity. Rémy Martin will be presenting A Tale of Three Cities, an 8 Hands Restaurant Bar Exchange, a two-night-long cocktail and tapas pairing experience. The highlight is the Rémy Martin Cognac Fine Champagne, which will be used in exceptional cocktails and cognac-infused dishes. The best part is that it will also feature Tess, another excellent establishment.
Tuesday, 10th April:
- Tess Bar & Kitchen X Dead Ringer: Mod-European meets casual Australian. The team from Tess Bar & Kitchen join hands with Dead Ringer’s Chef Jamie Irving and Australia’s most-awarded bartender Tim Philips to showcase produce-forward cuisine and mixology.
- Zui Hong Lou X Toyo Eatery & The Curator: Contemporary Asian food will take centerstage, with Chef Jordy Navarra from Toyo Eatery (Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Miele One To Watch) and Bartender David Ong from The Curator (Asia’s 50 Best Bars) joining the team at Zui Hong Lou to present both Chinese and Filipino Cuisine.
Thursday, 12th April:
- Tess Bar & Kitchen X Toyo Eatery & The Curator: The Filipino team will join the team at Tess Bar & Kitchen, blending of modern European and contemporary Filipino fare and cocktails.
- Zui Hong Lou X Dead Ringer: Dead Ringer and Zui Hong Lou will go head to head, with clean, produce-driven Australian fare competing with rich Chinese cuisine.
Cocktails from the special menus on both nights will be priced at $15++ and small plates will be priced from $14++ to $24++.
