I love old things.
To me, Singapore’s colonial history has a particular allure. There’s a feeling of nostalgia to capture the imagination. Those who have visited The White Rabbit, along Harding Road in the Dempsey area, would know. Housed in a restored chapel, one can’t help but enter a different time when spending a pleasant evening under its high ceiling and stained glass windows.
Lesser known is the lush garden within the grounds of the same chapel, but one often wonders why. If the restored chapel is the heart, then surely the adjoining garden is its verdant soul. Which makes it just about perfect a setting as you can get to sip a few drinks.
That, by way of contrast, is new. The Rabbit Hole is a refreshed bar concept with a whole new menu, centered on 15 carefully selected gins; a welcome change indeed. Gin is still criminally underappreciated in Singapore, but there’s a growing acceptance in the clear botanical elixir worldwide. I can’t see why it hasn’t yet taken off here; gin has a remarkable range and depth because of the freedom enjoyed by its distillers. There is no real formula in gin beyond the use of juniper, allowing them to leave their personal botanical signature on each. Gin ranges from the simple juniper-citrus peel-cardamom, to the 47-ingredient Monkey 47 gin, so there’s a whole wide world to explore.
The trouble starts when one can’t figure out which gin to try. It’s actually quite bewildering to wade through the hundreds of gins available to find something suited to one’s tastes.
Fortunately, all the work is done at The Rabbit Hole. With 15 great gins to choose from, there’s a good chance you’ll find something you like. And this isn’t hyperbole; some of the gins are in my opinion, the best you can get – or can’t get. The owners have helpfully grouped them into five categories to help us make up our minds:
Traditional London Dry – with London No.3 Gin as its exemplar. I found this the most traditional of gin types, perhaps best for those who just want something simple and familiar. Dominant tastes of juniper and precious little citrus and spice. Very dry as its name suggests, especially with the right dry tonic.
Simple and Honest, described as uncomplicated and easy drinking gins. Death’s Door Gin was the highlight, and I’m afraid I’m not a fan. Very strong juniper and spice in both nose and taste, a little overpowering for me. I can certainly see why some would love it, but it’s not for me.
Floral and Elegant – for something more fragrant, sweet and light – Hendrick’s, a favourite of mine. Rose petals and cucumber tastes. Very light and quite a pleasure to sip slowly. To my mind, this has the best balance of complexity and simplicity – just enough to make you wonder what’s in the gin, but not enough to be confusing.
Complex and Unexpected for the more adventurous. Monkey 47 is a great example of such a gin. In contrasts with the Hendrick’s, this is incredibly complex- there are after all, 47 different ingredients used to make it. I couldn’t name them all, but it’s a sign of good craftmanship that the tastes never jar or “separate” from the gin, but come together to make something pleasant. It’s a lot of fun to try to figure out what’s actually in it. I got berries, elderflower, lemon. Goes best with a very simple tonic, there’s so much going on already!
The New Classics for experimental new wave gins. G’vine Floraison. I was actually confused as to why there’s a fifth category- the Floraison is a very floral gin. And then came the revelation: it’s actually made of grape spirit and flavoured heavily with grapevine flowers, which makes it quite the departure from a traditional London Dry. I wouldn’t go so far as to call these classics, but I think these make great additions to the menu by adding a bit of avante-garde whimsy!
There are plenty of great touches beyond the great gin menu, though, notably the bar’s own make of tonic water. Gin pairs easily with tonic water, its historic and gastronomic soulmate. Originally, tonic was a form of malaria medicine made from the bark of the Cinchona tree. It was almost unbearably bitter and was mixed with gin and a sweetener. As time went by, the tonic became a soft drink and became sickeningly sweet, literally drowning out the taste of the gin. The Rabbit Hole’s own tonic remedies that by being somewhere in between the two, and goes well with the drier gins on the menu better than a typical Schwepps would.
All said, though, what’s most remarkable is the unique location. The strong connection of gin to the beautiful garden really adds a unique dimension to the whole experience. Appreciating the light botanicals in gin comes so easily surrounded by the lush greenery, especially when the garnishes are also grown in that same garden. I drank in the serene atmosphere, enjoying the light evening breeze and the earthy scent of green grass – sanctuary from the uncompromising, bustling Singapore life. While other great bars come across as glitzy or glamourous, this is simple and goes straight to the heart.
Unfortunately, the experience is also somewhat fleeting for now- the bar only opens at 6pm for now, so there’s only a brief window before the sun sets. I was assured that there will be afternoon sessions coming up in the future, so here’s to hoping that they come sooner rather than later.
Overall, I must say that I enjoy the uniqueness of The Rabbit Hole. The combination of a one-of-a-kind location, uncommon spirit, and little touches come together to make a unique experience. I recommend going there at least once just to see how different a drinking experience can be from a typical dinner-and-wine arrangement!
