Where to Go: Kakure Review

It’s still amazing to me that so many countries have their own national liquor. Somehow, man has found many different ways to reach the same end: celebratory inebriation. As the physical world seems to shrink each day, the drinking world keeps growing. Yet, while Singaporeans love all things nippon, and there seems to be a Japanese restaurant around every corner (I’m exaggerating for effect here, but not by much), it always surprises me that there isn’t more appreciation for sake. This is, to me, a real shame.

Fortunately, I’m not the only one who feels this way. The people behind Ki-sho have now opened a sake bar on the second floor of their colonial bungalow premises. While the original restaurant was a fine dining experience with some drinks, the new Kakure focuses on fine drinking with nibbles to match.

Much effort goes into stocking the bar, and there are premium sakes on the list that are unavailable anywhere else in Singapore. It’s not just about the various labels of sake that are being carried, but the type of sake. While most bars would stock the sweet, floral sake that we’re all somewhat used to, how many of them stock the earthy Junmai-shu? There are more than 50 sakes on offer at Kakure, but because some of them are small batch runs from boutique producers, they might not be available for very long; once they’re gone, they’re gone forever.

I was given an invitation to visit Kakure for a tasting, and had privilege of trying 7 different sakes with food pairings. The folks there definitely know what they’re doing; Makoto-san, the sake sommelier, served the wine with skill and precision. The right pairing with the right dishes, at the right temperature, with the right glasses. It’s definitely not easy to know how- and as a drinker I couldn’t replicate it, only tell you that it felt just right.

First Course: Kurobuta Kunsei – Cured Pork, paired Tatenokawa Junmai Daiginjo, Nakadori Ki-sho sake

Starting off with a bang, the first course was a dish of cured fatty pork served with the house brand Ki-sho sake. The pork was good, with a light salty-sweet taste, but the sake was exceptional. Banish your preconceptions of house brands- this particular label was handmade for the restaurant by an artisanal sake maker in Yamagata. There are only 108 bottles per batch, and there’s only one batch a year! Floral fragrances that remind one of white wine. White flower and fruits come through on the palate in delicate blend of flavour. Beautiful.

Second Course: Kohada Tempura– Gizzard shad wrapped in shiso leaf and grilled oyster, paired with Sakuramasamune Daiginjo and Kikuyoi Tokubetsu Junmai-shu

Continuing the first sake pairing, the second sake, a Daiginjo, was similarly floral and fruity with peach, nectarine and lychee on the nose and palate, though crisper than the first. The fish and grilled oyster was complemented with the third sake. which was earthy and mossy in sharp contrast to the first two. Strong and sweet, with a healthy dose of umami, it mingled perfectly with the smoked, slightly charred flavours of the seafood.

Third Course: Tai Tan- Classic Kyoto soup flavoured with homemade bonito, seaweed, dashi stock, chicken consommé, served with radish and tofu paired with Kikuhime Kinken Junmai

A sweet and fruity sake full of melon and honey was matched with a soupy Japanese winter dish. A little odd in my opinion, though the combination of savoury flavours in the light, warm consomme went well with the slightly heavier flavours in the drink.

Fourth Course: Buta Kakuni – Shoyu braised pork belly paired with Kaze No Mori Junmai Ginjo

The absolute highlight of the evening. The braised pork belly melted in the mouth like a chunk of soft caramel candy, yet did not overwhelm with a deluge of grease, which is the absolute hallmark of quality. The sake was no slouch either; the Kaze No Mori is an interesting meld of eiswein and sake’s, with all the sweetness of the sweet grape wine and the flavours of a rice wine. Rich, thick and syrupy, it almost felt like a sauce for the pork- in a good way!

Fifth Course: Goma Tofu Agedashi – Deep fried sesame beancurd served with Okuharima Yamahai Junmai Standard

I judge agedashi tofu by both taste and texture. The outside might be crispy but fluffy, not too thick yet not so thin as to seem like an afterthought. The tofu must be soft to the mouth, yet not so soft as to crumble when picked up with the chopsticks. Both must be infused with the taste of the dashi stock. Sadly, I didn’t think that the dish hit full marks on all fronts; the taste was fine on the outside, but the tofu felt a little too soft and not flavourful enough.

The sake more than made up for it, however. A very complex yamahai, rich in earth and spice, yet possessing a crisp acidity that awakens the mouth. A nice balance to the almost too-light tofu and my second favourite drink of the night, after the Nakadori Ki-sho served right at the start.

Sixth Course: Ikura Cha Soba – Matcha cold noodles served with fresh Salmon roe and topped with Japanese seaweed and spring onions paired with Echizen Misaki Junmaidaiginjo

To finish off, a bowl of cold noodles in a traditional style, with a rich umami taste and excellent contrast in textures through the soft noodles, crispy seaweed, crunchy onions and “bouncy” roe. Good enough to forget all my manners and slurp down with not a care in the world. After which, I was treated to the first “dessert” sake that I’ve ever had. It was sweeter and richer than the rest, with incredible citrusy notes that I didn’t get in the others. An incredible testament to the range that sake can have.

All this doesn’t come cheap, with the omakase starting at $88 and going up from there. All in all though, I’d say that this was pleasurable enough to be worth the expense. Not only was the food delicious, the sake was also exquisite and well paired with the courses. The incredible selection of drinks was meticulously chosen, and the friendly sommelier is there to help find just the right bottle to suit any taste. I left very satisfied with the entire experience, and I think you will too.