At this point, The Old Fashioned’s fame has reached phenomenal proportions. It has now become the poison of choice for your average enthusiast. One can hardly walk into a bar and not overhear some chap order one. In fact , we have written about it not once, but twice. This piece, in some ways, makes thrice.
And why not?
Few cocktails can match the pedigree of this straight drink. One might credit Don Draper of Mad Men fame for its surge in popularity, but that ignores the long years of fame the Old Fashioned has enjoyed on its own merits. No – the reason has to be much more fundamental. If one had to venture a guess as to the source of its enduring popularity, one would simply point out that the drink has an almost reductivist simplicity. The classic has a particularly short list of ingredients: sugar, bitters, orange peel…
And of course, whisky. Or, as it may be in this case, whiskey.
While one can justifiably say that they love the Old Fashioned for its own sake, many are just looking for a way to enjoy their whisky which isn’t neat, on the rocks, or with soda. All the other ingredients, like the backing vocalists in a rock band, are primarily there to support the spirit.
That sentiment seems to be shared by the owners of the revamped Flagship, now the ‘Home of the Old Fashioned. With 200 whiskies on the menu, one can enjoy 200 distinctively different variations of the classic cocktail while lapping up the late 60s rock-inspired decor.
Home of the Old Fashioned
While the Old Fashioned is now often made with the corn-dominant Bourbon or Tennessee Whisky, the rye based whisky is more traditional. Should one choose to partake of the Classic Old Fashioned ($22++), Flagship’s principal bartender Jerrold Khoo will give you the best of both worlds and serve one made of Bulleit bourbon. Bulleit, which has made quite the name for itself in recent years, has a stronger rye content than most bourbons, and sits at an ample 28%.
As it turns out, the expression works well in the most American of drinks. With orange, brown sugar and Angostura Bitters, the Bulleit’s dual nature imparts lusciously sweet profile, with a simmering undercurrent of warm spiciness. A very competently made rendition of a drink that is often taken for granted. One does think that it’s a little pricey for what goes into it, but if you want something really good with the minimum of fuss, this is it.
For those who want something a little different, cross the Atlantic and try the Sherry Cask Old Fashioned ($22++). Glendronach 12, Black Sesame Syrup, Whiskey Barrel Aged Bitters are stirred up in this twist of the original. The Glendronach, much like its older sibling, can be described as a sherry bomb, and it grants the cocktail a somewhat softer flavour the the sometimes harsh rye. The nuttiness of sherry is complemented by sesame syrup and wood aged bitters, adding up to a slightly savoury drink with a fine, oaky finish. The absence of the vanilla flavours from American Oak (and therefore Bourbon) makes this a very attractive alternative to the Classic.
Something fashioned just for you
The real deal, however, is creating your own bespoke drink. For absolutely no extra charge at all, Jerrold can transform any whisky, gin or rum on the menu into an Old Fashioned, with an added twist for good measure. Adding a dimension to your favourite whisky sounds like a great deal of fun, and one felt compelled to surrender to whimsy. With both Bourbon and Speyside scotch covered, one just had to look to Islay and its malts.
Fans of the peat will doubtlessly have heard of Octomore, a malt touted at the peatiest in the world. Since its inaugural release in 2008, it has gained a cult following for both its exclusivity and incredible smoky maritime flavours. Why not put it in an Old Fashioned and see what happens?
Turns out that the Octomore Old Fashioned ($39++) was the best drink of the lot. Jerrold used the the eponymous whisky, maple syrup and Amargo Chuncho bitters to assemble what can only be described as magic in a glass. There was an initial flood of peat, but it was balanced sublimely by the addition of the maple syrup and bitter bitters. The price tag, of course, is thanks to the cost of the Octomore itself- but it is worth every cent if you can afford it. If you are looking for something else more to your tastes, just ask- Jerrold is happy to recommend a few tipples of his own.
And then, something new fashioned
If you’re looking for something that’s not an Old Fashioned, the Remember the Maine ($22++) is a twist on the Manhattan, made with Cutty Sark Prohibition Scotch, Cherry Brandy, Sweet Vermouth, Absinthe and Black Pepper. In contrast to some of the other Manhattans out there, this is much less saccharine, and nuanced with the cherry and strong spicy notes coming through in the finish. If you want a change, try the Gin N Roses Reunion ($22++), elegantly built on gin, brandy, almond-laced Crème de Noyaux and bubbly.
For those who would rather skip the cocktails entirely and partake only of the Water of Life, tasting flights will be available, starting with a flight for Compass Box for Flagship’s launch menu. Compass Box, the maverick of the scotch whisky industry, do rather strange things to their malts- such as infusing them with orange, aging them with oak staves and even not use malts at all! A brief glance at the whisky list reveals some rarities not commonly available elsewhere. I was quite glad to see that the Rosebank 20 Year, Springbank 15 Year, and Amrut Fusion were available. If you really want a treat, ask for the George T. Stagg and William Larue Weller, both top-class American whiskeys.
If you’re looking for something to munch on while enjoying your drams, ask for the Pok Pok Chicken Wings ($16++). Sweet, savoury and spicy, yet tender and succulent- a perfect accompaniment to many of the whiskies. Or, if you’d like something heartier, have the Maine Lobster Roll ($39++). A fluffier and more buttery bun filled with sumptuous lobster flesh could not be asked for.
Summing it all up
With so much to offer for dram demons, Flagship is a great addition to the whisky bar scene in Singapore. I particularly like the cosiness and casualness of the bar as well- a marked difference from the somewhat “atas” whisky establishments that seem to dominate the scene here. Service is prompt and friendly, and I’d be happy to order drinks all evening long.
All this comes at a price, though. The drinks are not the cheapest, though not so far from the norm to be a cause of concern. Be prepared to pay for quality here- but quality you will get. I’d heartily recommend Flagship if you’re looking for a good place to enjoy a whisky or an Old Fashioned, and don’t want to make an elaborate affair out of it!
Flagship
20 Bukit Pasoh Road
Singapore 089834
For reservations: (+65) 6750 4461; (+65) 9772 9896
