If there was truly a Most Interesting Man in the World, Ernest Hemingway would be a frontrunner for the title. So interesting in fact, that they named a bar after him.
A bar that just so happened to become the Best Bar in Asia.
The Old Man and the Singapore
Hemingway was undoubtedly a prolific author; he wrote seven novels, six short story collections and two non fiction works over thirty years. He eventually won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1954 for his efforts.
That was not all he did, however. By all accounts a man of energy and adventure, he traveled across Europe, the Americas and Africa. He witnessed both World Wars (and from the front lines in the First one, no less). He was also quite a refined drinker.
The Hemingway Daiquiri, known also as the Papa Doble, was created for the author, who preferred his drinks…strong. Harry’s Bar in Venice owes part of its fame to its famous patrons, including Hemingway, who came in for its world’s famous Bellinis.
So, it’s not altogether surprising that someone would eventually open a Hemingway- inspired bar. You might already know that the original bar in Hong Kong was named 2019’s Asia’s Best Bar, but you might not know that it has also spread its roots to Singapore.
We’re certainly spoilt for choice, to say the least.
My Love, She Gave Me Light
Hemingway was a modern writer, ahead of his time. His language was simple, almost childlike, but covered in layers of meaning underneath. This gave it an ageless quality, but also a kind of intimacy and authenticity that reached out of the page and touched the soul.
The bar’s structure does reflect that idea. It has an “I” shape. with seats surrounding its perimeter. The bartenders stand at the top of the “I”, and from every corner of the bar, one can see them work. Its single, low surface puts no barrier between drinker and bartender, and its simple wood construction gives it a casual, welcoming vibe.
It’s intimate and simple.
The drinks, on the other hand, are somewhat complex, but not overwrought. There are of them on the main menu, and they all are priced at a very reasonable $17++. While price isn’t a determining factor all the time, it’s safe to say that drinking at The Old Man is quite affordable by Singapore standards.
We started off with Islands in the Stream, a simple carbonated drink of clarified pink grapefruit and salted gin. A tall, refreshing drink with a soft citrus flavour, accentuated by hints of savouriness and punctuated with a dab of light bitter herbs.
It’s flavourful but subtle, and despite the carbonation, had a silky, soft texture rather than a light burn. We liked it; it wasn’t overconstructed, and rather tasty.
The Green Hills of Africa, while more Asian than African, was much more to our liking. Made from an unusual combination of rosemary infused pisco, turmeric, citrus and tamarind cordial, it looks on the surface to be a riff on a Pisco Sour.
There was something very South/Southeast Asian about it, however, with a meld of spiciness and sourness that reminds us of Achaar pickles. While that does admittedly sound a little strange for a drink, we found that flavours, while distinct, are not heavy-handed, and excite the palate.
Across the River into the Trees also felt rather like an Asian riff on a classic cocktail. Campari Sous-vide Williams Pear, Cinzano Bianco, verjus, jackfruit shrub and soda come together in what superficially resembles an Americano or Aperol Spritz. The combination of jackfruit, pear and orange give it a fruity, tropical feel- very unlike the Italian aperitif. The drink is well constructed; not overwhelming and particularly enjoyable in the scorching weather.
A Softly Sleeping Sweetness
We followed up the light drinks with (not quite literally, of course) a Death in the Afternoon. Absinthe, sparkling wine, coco-pandan yogurt and nutmeg are shaken into a tall glass.
The result was reminiscent of pandan ice cream. Sweetness, with a thickness that was less cocktail, more ice-cream milkshake. The excess was reined in by a good helping of herb and spice, but it’s still a little heavy for our tastes.
The Snows of Kilimanjaro also proved to be very enjoyable. Marshmallow bulldog gin, lacto-fermented raspberry, citrus and gruyere are strangely compelling bedfellows.
The salty-sweet aroma of the cheese on top give the drink a strangely delicate character. We get echoes of a raspberry cheesecake, with a light sprinkling of sea salt that lifts the berries within. Yet, it’s not cloying. We quite like it.
The Heart Hangs Heavy
For something a little more traditional, we turned to the Little Wax Puppy. Made from beeswax-infused Russell’s Reserve 10yo with eucalyptus honey and bitters; quite recognisable as a variant of the Old-Fashioned. There’s a subtle creaminess and a light mentholic backbone that adds nuance to the typical flavour progression of sweet-spicy-bitter. It’s a little softer, for sure, but the herbal tone also works to perk up the classic.
We found ourselves very pleased with The Sun Also Rises. Coconut-fat-washed applejack, curry-leaf-infused bulldog gin, sweet vermouth sous vide with pandan leaves and kaffir lime. It does superficially resemble a Negroni, perhaps, but a sip quickly proves the opposite.
It’s very hard to describe how coconut, curry leaf, kaffir and pandan and applejack work together. It’s as if the kitchen and bar came together in the most serendipitous of ways; the weaving of herbal acridness, tartness, spiciness, and mellow sweetness into a cohesive whole.
The ingredients flowed seamlessly from each other, with waves of contrasting flavours washing over the tongue. They are paradoxically distinct but complementary, contrasting but harmonious. A triumph.
Finally, we had to have the classic Papa Doble, which The Old Man served with a few tweaks. Pineapple-sous-vide Appleton White Rum, clarified pink grapefruit and lime, maraschino liqueur and sous-vide-jalapeno peppers.
It cleaved quite close to the original recipe; extremely boozy, but with excellent balance of sweet, sour, savoury and dry. The peppers, however, turn this into liquid fire; a richer tartness and sheer spiciness ignite the tastebuds.
Summing it all up
The drinks at the Old Man are delicious- and somehow, still very affordable. While it wasn’t clear at first glance, there was a substantial Asian influence in the drinks. We like that the focus was on the drinks, not promoting Asian ingredients- which stand mute testimony to the excellent overall quality.
While the menu isn’t particularly large, we think there’s enough variation in style and flavour that there’s something for everyone. That said, the boozier drinks definitely stood out.
We can definitely see why the parent is the Best Bar in Asia, and the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.
