It’s no secret that Scotch whisky has gotten into something of a painful quandary of late. As demand mounts and supplies dwindle, many distillers find themselves in the uncomfortable situation of having rather less than enough whisky in their warehouses to support their existing expressions.
It is a good time to remember that even most single malt whiskies are a marrying of different whiskies of varying ages, even if they are from the same distillery. The regulations demand that the age statement on the bottle show the age of the youngest whisky within in it. This means that even if the distillers put a single drop of 3 year old whisky into a bottle of otherwise 25 year old whisky, the age statement would have to show “3”.
This would not normally be an issue, as distilleries usually have enough current stock to marry with their older whiskies in somewhat reasonable proportions. With the whisky shortage, however, many distillers have had to turn to NAS (non-age-statement) whiskies; it is then possible to marry younger whiskies with older ones and not have to display ludicrously low age statements.
NAS whiskies have had their detractors, however. With the established practice of showing an age statement abandoned, consumers and critics alike have far less information to work with when it comes to determining what is inside a bottle of whisky. Those of a suspicious demeanour would doubt that there is, in fact, much less old whisky than younger in a typical NAS expression – leading to lower quality and a rather poor value for what they pay for. The paranoid would even accuse the distilleries of “cheating” the consumers, substituting the age statement with flowery marketing language.
Personally, one feels that the actual taste of the whisky should come before an age statement- worry about flavour before thinking about the label on the bottle. One does admit, however, that an age statement is a great barometer for how the whisky will eventually taste. The lack of an age statement doesn’t mean that a whisky is bad, but it does expose it to questions about its quality. It thus advantageous for a bottle of scotch to proudly bear a number on its face!
It is therefore very reassuring to see the new Macallan Double Cask 12 Years Old, part of a trilogy of 12 year expressions from Macallan, make its debut.
The Double cask joins its siblings in the core range of 12 year old Macallan whiskies, all with markedly different styles.
The Macallan 12 Years Old, a sherry oak based dram, has been available for some time in Singapore. It showcases the distinctive sherried character of the Macallan, thanks to the distiller’s extensive work in acquiring Spanish oak and partnership with Spanish bodegas. The Fine Oak 12 Years Old is a different beast entirely; matured mostly in ex-Bourbon casks, it expresses more of the vanilla and coconut notes.
The Double Cask sits in between, made from a marrying (blending) of whiskies matured in ex-sherry American oak with those from European oak casks. The European oak imparts a tannic, spicy flavour, where the American imparts the vanilla and lighter citrus tones. As the casks both contained sherry, they also pass on a certain nutty, fruitcake character. The Macallan calls it a marriage of two worlds, old and new. This is a whisky that amalgamates the flavours of different whiskymaking styles- which should appeal to those who enjoy a complex, multifaceted dram.
The beauty of having three options is that it’s easy to choose a style that suits one’s preference. Virtually no other brand offers three different 12 year old whiskies in Singapore- let alone with three distinct styles. It is even more impressive that Macallan continue to take only the best 16% of its final distillation(new make) to fill their oak casks. This is a remarkable effort!
Tasting Notes:
Nose: Beautiful, rich aromas of citrus, oak and spice. A very light hint of vanilla sweetness. Rounded. but full and pleasant.
Palate: Medium body- definitely heavier than the Fine Oak 12. Flavourful, but balanced. I get mostly oranges, caramel and honey. Reminds me a little of spiced orange marmalade on perfectly done toast- a bittersweet rich spread.
Finish: Medium length, mostly oak flavours, dry and yielding.
The Double Cask is richer and more complex than I expected from a 12 year old. It offers a good compromise between the heavily sherried Macallan 12 Years Old and the somewhat light Fine Oak 12. While marrying American and European Oak is not unheard of- Macallan has been doing it for years- offering that combination at the 12 year entry range is something new indeed. We found that the Double Cask was particularly fine when paired with briny Spanish cuisine. Allow yourself to be transported into a union of two worlds by the meld of sweet and savoury in your senses- it’s a beautiful thing.
The real magic, however, is the value it provides for your money. At $140 per bottle, it packs a lot of punch for a very affordable price. If you’re new to whisky, or simply want a good everyday dram, strongly consider acquiring this beauty.
The Macallan Double Cask 12 Years Old will be available at most liquor stores and bars.
