The British have certainly left their mark on the history of alcoholic drinks. Whisky, gin, port, sherry, and of course, rum – and while some of these have fallen somewhat off the radar somewhat, they’re all very much alive. Even the great spirit of the colonial age- rum.
Contrary to what we see in the movies, rum isn’t just for the sailors and pirates. It’s a little underappreciated. perhaps. but it has a legitimacy deserving of a place on the bar. White rum is pretty much vodka made from sugar, and is perhaps a little less sophisticated and very intentionally so. Dark rum, however, is made using many of the same techniques used in making single malt whisky- down to the aging in oak barrels. That’s, in fact, how it gets its amber-brown colour.
Like a good whisky, a great specimen of rum is not all just sweetness and cocktails. but can, and should, be tasted on its own as well. Why hide the complexity of a good rum behind lemon, spice and ironically, sugar, when there’s already so much flavour to be had?
Fortunately, adventurous spirit lovers are beginning to rediscover the pleasures of sipping a well crafted rum. Sugarhall, which opened last year, in 2014, specialises in rum- which makes it unique among Singaporean establishments. They’ve brought in many different rums that are not available anywhere else on our sunny island.
Before we go on, let’s consider the idea of a single cask spirit. Most commercially available spirits are made from blending spirits of different casks of different casks, so that the producer can consistently recreate a familiar flavour, and their customers know what to expect. In contrast, a single cask spirit exults in its uniqueness. Trouble is, it’s hard to find one particular cask of whisky which has all the qualities that one finds perfect in a drink. It has to contain the desired flavours, have the right maturity and perhaps something unique of its own- unique but pleasant. Even single cask whiskies are not all the common.
Interestingly enough, Rums can also be aged in casks- and one finds oneself in a similar situation when selecting a single cask rum as when looking for a single cask whisky. The good folk at Sugarhall believe that they had found such a cask- from the now closed Trinidad distillery Caroni.
So, of course I had to try it.
I arrived at Sugarhall on a weekday night. The service was prompt, polite, and warm, even. You can judge for yourself.
Fortunately, Sugarhall is mindful of the adventurers who like sampling a bit of everything. They created the Flagship Flight, which includes three excellent aged rums to tantalise the tongue. The presentation was delightful- three small rocks glasses on a wooden “tray”” that one suspects used to be a cask. Like any good rum from the age of sail, it came with a little glass bottle, complete with a treasure map.
Well, I didn’t find a chest of gold, but the contents of the glasses were precious indeed.
Sugarhall Berry Bros and Rudd Caroni, 17 years old. The flagship; exclusively bottled for Sugarhall, there were only 240 of these made, and that number has dwindled somewhat, I suspect. Nose of oak and smoke, slight toffee smell. I found the taste to be surprisingly dry, lots of oak influences from the cask- very woody. Some very mild raisin notes. Heavy on spice and smoke. Refined, though, not raw at all – sophisticated and smooth on the palate. I’d happily endorse this single cask rum if you’re into tasting a complex, fulfilling whisky that would make you long for yet another sip; it’s not a kind of drink that you would take purely to get drunk!
Caroni 1997, 17 years old. Another 17 year old from Caroni, but not a single cask expression. Similar to the BBR above, but feels a bit more raw. Oaky, smoky and a little bit spicy. Another fine rum, and if you can’t get the single cask, then this is a good bet.
El Dorardo, 15 Years old. A sharp contrast to the other two rums. Nose of honey, dried fruit and a little bit of wood. The taste doesn’t disappoint. It’s as sweet as the other two rums are dry. Thick and syrupy, caramel and honey flavours with a bit of spice and just a touch of wood, nothing more. Like drinking treacle or toffee. Despite all that, it’s not one dimensional. The flavours are well layered and it’s not cloying in any way. Excellent rum and easily my favourite of the night. I have a serious sweet tooth.
Conclusion?
If you’re thinking that rum can’t have the complexity and sophistication that a good whisky can, these 3 rums will change your mind. All 3 are worthy of a place on the bar shelf, for sure! Sadly, it’s not easy to get your hands on them. Rum hasn’t quite caught on with most drinkers yet (more’s the pity), so you won’t find that many places that offer these liquid delights. I’d suggest you head down to Sugarhall to get a taster. Don’t wait too long though, the BBR Caroni is very limited in quantity, and once it’s gone, it’s gone forever.
Sugarhall
102 Amoy Street
Singapore 069922
