Smoke & Mirrors has a beautiful location, perched on top of the National Gallery. That location is both blessing and challenge, as a bar that needs to go on top of an art gallery better have some creative, even artistic creations to match.
So far, the bar has done well, but with some recent changes to the menu, the question that comes to mind is an obvious one.
Is the magic still alive?
Different Kind of Magic
There was a little bit of a handing over the baton at Smoke & Mirrors, and new Head Bartender Jorge Conde came on board with quite a task. The Spaniard has had fourteen years of experience and cut his teeth in London, another of the world’s great cocktail cities, but even then, it would be quite a challenge to come up with a new menu here.
Indeed, Smoke & Mirrors was well reputed for using unusual ingredients and beautiful presentations for the cocktails. For Jorge to carry on that legacy, adhere to the theme of the bar, and yet put his own unique touches on the menus was never going to be easy.
So, half a year or so into the role, Jorge has launched a new menu of sixteen drinks, which he entitles Illusion of Flavours. The idea was to combine art and chemistry, and stay true to the Smoke & Mirrors name by creating unexpected twists beneath the surface.
All well and good, but did he succeed?
The Pledge
The new menu is divided into six categories, each of a certain style; Fizzy & Elegant, Sour & Neat, Long & Refreshing, Strong & Neat, Fruity & Punchy and Savoury & Umami. If one keeps count, that’s about two to three drinks per category; quite a concise collection, but one that makes the choices more straightforward.
We started off in the Long & Refreshing category, with Just a Thai Spritz ($22++), a take on the Spritz. A Thai tea infusion was mixed with preserved lemon, apricot brandy, white vermouth and sparkling wine, then garnished with sorrel.
It had an interesting flavour profile, with the spicy Thai tea as the primary influence. Unlike most spritzes, which are fairly light, it’s powerfully aromatic, with the spicy and earthiness of the tea dominating. There is a nuanced acidity followed by the softer flavour tones (relatively speaking) of the actual tea leaves.
As a spritz, it’s fairly light on the body, and ends up resembling a boozy Thai Iced Lemon Tea- though one with a bit of depth to it. It’s not bad, though we couldn’t say we were in love just yet.
The Turn
Our interest was piqued by a charming little number named Picasso’s Pencil ($25++), said to be inspired by Picasso’s first word, “piz” the Spanish word for pencil. The combination of distilled pencil wood, smoky agave, preserved lemon, Manzanilla sherry, apple vinegar and tonic seemed rather interesting; how does one distill a pencil?
Well, the result was quite unusual. We found a scent of cedar, earth and mescaline smoke in it, which really did bring to mind the flavours of a pencil (which, of course, we have chewed on). The cocktail itself starts off acidic, then transitions into earthy, sweet, woody and smoky in that order.
We enjoyed the progression of flavours, which we found complex and intriguing. We’d have preferred that the body of the drink be thicker to hold up to the flavours in this short drink, however.
The Prestige
The opening acts were competent, but the main event started with the The Japanese Gang is Still Alive ($25++), a localised take on a whiskey sour. Black sesame and black rice are present both within the drink, and as a garnish. Butter, rice vinegar and whisky are also used, with a foam of aquafaba completing the drink.
We found an initial soft acidity quite unlike the sharp tang of citrus, which smoothly shifted into a bittersweet play of cream, butter and sesame. The whisky finally makes its appearance towards the ends, lending a mild and a subtle spicy finish.
We did enjoy the drink, which had an interesting combination of flavours, complexity, and a satisfy texture. However, because we are such geeks, we also enjoyed the gentle play on our expectations. This whisky sour was more about the sour than the whisky, but in an interesting, nuanced way.
Our favourite drink was definitely the Peel and See ($28++), inspired by Warhol’s iconic art for The Velvet Underground.
On first glance, it might be mistaken for a Dirty Martini. Yet the gin and olive oil are integrated with miso and banana, with a quinine aperitif thrown in for good measure.
The result was a drink that starts with a powerful savoury note and a green, herbal flavour following hot on its heels. A very subtle sweetness of banana then entered the stage, brightening the midnote discernibly, but supporting, rather than masking, the flavours that came before it. The bitter quinine then finished the drink, preserving its refreshing, elegant character.
All in all, we found the Peel and See delicious, with a nice interweaving of complementary flavours. The best part, of course, it that it does this without punching you in the face; subtlety is seldom adequately appreciated!
Summing it All Up
Overall, we found that the menu had promise, with the latter two drinks definitely a cut above the initial duo. We did enjoy the subversions of our expectations- and that was perhaps the most unexpected bit!
On reflection, the unevenness in the menu might seem a little uncomfortable, but even then, we found the weakest drink, The Just a Thai Spritz, very drinkable still. The Peel and See, however, is worthy of a trip down to the National Gallery.
Jorge definitely has a few tricks up his sleeve. We’ll be glad to see what’s next.
