Singapore is no stranger to sake. The rice wine is widely available on our sunny shores in restaurants, supermarkets and- in those most Japanese of drinking places- izakayas.
While widely available, however, knowledge of sake is not as widespread as it perhaps should be among locals. One often finds Japanese diaspora haunting the izakayas, and for most part, the proprietors do not spend much time educating Singaporeans on the finer points of sake appreciation, or actively recommending budget-friendly artisanal sakes.
Not so for Shukuu Izakaya.
Homegrown
Skukuu is nestled in the midst of a row of shophouses in Stanley Street, just off Telok Ayer. Restaurants abound in the enclave, and there are even some Japanese eateries in the area. The izakaya itself even looks like it could blend in quite well in the heart of Tokyo. Sake bottles are stacked neatly on the counter, Japanese art adorn the walls and even a feeling of mild claustrophobia from the close-set tables all remind us of trips to Japan in days past.
However, we noticed something quite different about this particular joint very quickly.
You see, the owners of the place are not Japanese, but a duo of young local chaps- people that we might very well have before in a hawker center. What’s even more remarkable is that they are no slouches when it comes to knowing their sake!
Luis Liu, one of the owners, brought us through a curated sake journey. He is a double certified SSI International Kikisake-Shi (國際唎酒師) and SSA Certified Sake Sommelier. Luis discovered his love for the wine in 2009, when he started his journey. His passion for the drink has grown since then, and he spends much time acquiring knowledge of the Japanese national brew. You might be impressed to find out that most of the literature on sake is written in Japanese- making a good command of the language essential for delving into its mysteries!
Luis has made it Shukuu Izakaya’s mission to share the knowledge of the drink of Japan- at a very reasonable price. He has also taken the time to source sakes from smaller, artisanal breweries to keep the costs down, but also to find some flavours unavailable from the big brands.
But of Course
Knowledge of sake is best paired with actual sake. Luis started with a blind serve of the Kaze no Mori Akitsuho Junmai Shiborihana Sake (“Wind from the Forest”- $128 per bottle). The sake itself was slightly fizzy, though not as effervescent as a Champagne. A taste reveals a thick and viscous texture balanced with crisp acidity, with apples red and green, sour cherries, banana.
Given that Shukuu is an Izakaya, the sake is meant to be served with small dishes to further enhance the flavours of both food and beverage. In this case, Gyu Ponzu ($7), lightly seared slices of wafer thin beef marinated with citrusy ponzu sauce, is the designated pairing. Tender and bathed in both the ponzu and its own fragrant oils, the beef’s flavour is enhanced by the acidic sake, which cuts through the fatty beef and blends both flavours.
Luis explains that Kaze no Mori is from the Nara prefecture, before dropping another tantalising fact- it is actually a Junmaishu sake. In sake parlance, daiginjo is widely considered to be the highest grade because of the extensive polishing of the rice before brewing, which gives the sake a refined taste and fragrant aroma. 50 percent or more of the rice must be milled away before it can be considered a daiginjo, which reduces the amount of raw material that brewers have to work with; the prices are high to match.
On the other hand, junmaishu is only about 30% polished, and is considered to be the lowest grade. In this case, however, the common perception of junmai seems to be wrong in the best way possible- this is a flavourful and complex sake, at a fraction of the price.
It is ironic, but the next drink was the Hanabi Junmai Daiginjo (“Flower Bathed by the Sun”- $148 per bottle), which exhibited all the traits of its class. Light fragrances of banana and melon tickle the nose, but the flavour, in contrast, is little savoury and crisply acidic. A most excellent drink, but one actually prefers the stronger flavours of the junmai.
A drink less common
Shukuu stocks some impressive sakes, including one exclusive to it – the Tokubetsu Junmaishu ($53 per bottle). Specially bottled in a traditional Tokkuri jug, it is the result of the collaboration between Shukuu and a brewery in Nikko, Tochigi.
Unlike the previous two drinks, the Tokubetsu is served warm- not ice-cold, nor boiling like mulled wine. Luis took great care in getting the temperature exactly right by immersing the vessel in a water bath and dipping a thermometer in it every so often. This attention to detail is not all ritual, however; we found that the aromas were easier to discern thanks to the warmth- but only at a very particular temperature. In this case, the scent of brine, reminiscent of seaweed, wafted from the serving cup. The texture is thick, full of umami flavours (in a recurring theme for sakes at Shukuu), and- to me- had faint flavours of Greek yogurt.
The umami flavour pairs well with Pork Jowl Charshu ($12). The meat was marinated with a blend of 20 ingredients for up to 48 hours, making it so tender that it took on a (pardon the expression) melt in your mouth texture. We particularly enjoyed this one. There’s just the right amount of texture and contrast to make it thoroughly enjoyable.
Finally, bringing our sake journey full circle, we tried a Bodaimoto from Imanishi Brewery ($118 per bottle), which is a particularly rare brew. Unlike the more modern sakes we had earlier, this is something of a love song to tradition. The water used in its brewing is sourced from a stream behind a temple. One does not simply draw from the stream, however; monks must perform ceremonial chants on the water before they can be used in sake production. This accounts for the extreme rarity of this particular sake; only 6 of Japan’s 1,200 to 3,000 breweries are allowed to sell this.
The rice wine itself has the familiar umami flavour, but in deeper and richer tones than the others, even having the wisps of soy and bonito fish flake flavours. The overall effect is to bring a delicious bowl of dashi stock to mind. It goes superbly with the smoky-sweet grilled chicken Tsukune ($4.5) meatballs.
Summing it up
From what we saw of Shukuu Izakaya, we were very impressed. Both food and drink were of high quality. In particular, we liked the Bodaimoto, Tokubetsu Junmaishu, Pork Jowl Chashu and Tsukune meatballs, all of which are robust and flavourful. However, what struck us most was the passion and knowledge of its owners. Luis. in particular, was eager to share his wealth of sake knowledge, and did so in a down-to-earth, relatable manner. The focus on value for money, rather than big brand names sakes, was what sealed the deal for us.
If you’re looking to have a good time enjoying small-plate Japanese food with sake, be sure to visit Shukuu. If you’re yearning to learn more about the rice wine, they also endeavour to hold sake masterclasses every fortnight.
Shukuu Izakaya
8 Stanley Street
Singapore 068727
www.facebook.com/ShukuuIzakaya/
