We’ve been waiting a long time for this.
The 15 Year Old Glendronach “Revival”, one of our favourites, took a long leave of absence. It has finally returned, and we couldn’t wait to taste it. Rumour has it that there’s more than meets the eye however…
Sorely missed
Glendronach has always held a soft spot for us, and the old Revival especially so. Way back in 2015, we looked at the original Glendronach 15, and with no hesitation, declared it as “one of the best whiskies you can still get for under 200 bucks a bottle”.
Since our review, however, the Glendronach 15 stocks declined, and there were few bottles to be found anywhere in the last 3 years. As to the reasons why: we were told that stocks were running out because of demand far outstripping supply.
Whisky, after all, takes a great deal of time to make.
If time was the problem, then time was also the solution. If one was patient, then the 15 year old whisky would return, eventually. The original Revival was so named because it was the successor to the original Glendronach 15 Year Old.
What’s old is new again
So, when the Revival was revived recently, we were brimming with anticipation. Yet, there was a certain amount of trepidation as well, we must admit.
The question on the top of our minds was the same as everyone else’s: would the new expression would retain the character of the old one?
We know that the new 15 Year Old might look the same, but its contents are not. Where the old Revival used only Oloroso sherry casks, the newly resurrected one used a combination of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez. While it’s tempting to downplay the difference, the two sherries are as different as a sweet dessert wine and a Chardonnay.
We did not expect the two Revivals to be twins, but we were hoping that they were siblings, at least.
Nose: We are reminded of a Blackforest Cake, with some dark cherries, cream, dark sugar and milk chocolate. There’s plenty of stewed fruit as well; apricot and peaches especially. Under it all is a deep, rich scent of Manuka honey, balanced with a light touch of earth and tobacco. It finishes with a medium spiciness.
Palate: Sweet. Redolent with dark honey, dried apricots and peaches. The Blackforest cake is in full flight here; our mouths are awash with the flavours of dark chocolate, cherries, plums and even a hint of dates.
Finish: Nicely balanced. We find a sprinkling of dark cocoa match with a medium spiciness- cloves and cinnamon.
Overall, we like it. We’d hesitate to call the new and the old release siblings, on reflection. They’re closer to cousins; the structures and the heavy sherried character of Glendronach is unmistakable.
Yet at the same time, we found the new Revival to be somewhat sweeter and punchier; the black forest cake and stone fruit notes are its own. Some sacrifices were made, for sure. We found the bitter-orange-and-chocolate of the original Revival more elegant.
In short, if you’re looking for something exactly like the original, you’ll not find it here. If you’re looking for a whisky with the classic Glendronach flair, and a tasty dram, to boot, then you’ve come to the right place.
One last comment, though, would be on the price. The Revival retails at $299. For a 15-Year-Old whisky, this is a hefty sum, especially if we compare it to the thrift of the previous Revival. While the ask doesn’t reach astronomical heights (look at Japan for those), it’s something to consider.
The extended family
The great thing about Glendronach is that there’s a whole family of malts (at various price points) which bear more than a passing resemblance. While we won’t be reviewing each of them in turn, we’ll provide tasting notes if you should be interested in picking them up.
Glendronach 12 Year Old
Nose: Spice, ginger, pine, some creamy, vanilla, dark fruit and a hint of leather leather
Palate: A discernible bite on the initial sip that contrasts to its thickness. We get rock sugar, caramel, sweet orange and honey.
Finish: Quite spicy. Cinnamon and ginger for sure.
Glendronach 18 Year Old “Allardice”
Nose: Unlike the previous two, this one has a slightly savoury, marine aspect. The sherry is definitely making itself known. There’s nuts, biscuit, fruitcake, dark sugar and a little leather for good measure.
Palate: Sweeter, too, than the 12 and 15 Year Olds. We get thick, syrupy honey, dark sugar, forest berries and dark, bitter chocolate. If that sounds like the Revival to you, then you’d be spot on- but it takes the qualities of the 15 year old and heightens all of them.
Finish: Long and spicy. We get a dominant ginger note, and some tannins as well.
Glendronach 21 Year Old “Parliament”
Nose: A sweet, fruity one. Dates and caramel, for sure. Stewed plum, apricot, overripe peaches and red apples. There is a undertone of cream and pine. Even more confectionery- like than the others.
Palate: A fruity beginning, with dark fruits, blackberries, and prunes. It then takes on the dark chocolate, toffee and manuka honey notes we have come to expect. There’s some tobacco here, too.
Finish: Long and lingering, with the same ginger and cinnamon of the others, but somehow, lighter and “airier”.
We don’t really have a sweet tooth, but even we really like this one.
Glendronach 1993 Cask #393
Nose: This one, too has savoury notes. There’s a powerful prune and dark cherry aroma that again brings the Blackforest Gateau to mind. the sultanas, apricots and overripe peaches are there too. There’s a fair bit of chocolate, leather and tobacco, too. Imagine the Revival, but pushed to the limit.
Palate: Sweet as well. Here, the apricot, sweet orange and apples stand out. The savoury note is very pronounced, as are some dark and heavy wine flavours- berries and cherries.
Finish: The longest and most lingering of the lot. Still getting ginger, and a tiny bit of tannin.
Summing it all up
Well, we’re glad the Revival is back. More accurately, it has been reincarnated into a richer, more sultry form. It’s a pity about the increased price, but perhaps we were a little spoiled from its underpriced predecessor.
If you can afford it, the new Glendronach 15 Year Old “Revival” deserves a space on your shelf. If you’re looking for something at a different price range, then Glendronach can definitely deliver.
Glendronach is distributed by Malt and Wine Asia. You can get the malts listed at The Grande Whisky Collection.
