Singaporean cuisine is an important part of the culture here. Our nation’s history as a regional trading port has made the blending of cultures and peoples of diverse origins possible- even inevitable.
Naturally, the new immigrants brought their food here, and over time, they melded together to form something new. A harmonious mix of the flavours the world has to offer.
Much like the way cocktails are today, we think.
Finding our Roots
We’re quite proud of our roots here in Singapore. Food is one its most important manifestations; it’s rare to find a Singaporean who doesn’t enjoy the local cuisine. In point of fact, a food trail is sure to be on the cards for anyone entertaining foreign guests.
That being said, Singaporean food isn’t isn’t haute cuisine. We tend to enjoy hearty fare, enjoyed over the din of clashing plates in the hawker centers. It’s comforting and often robust in flavour, complex in preparation but paradoxically simple in presentation.
Bringing that cuisine into cocktails isn’t a new thing. Many bars have tried, and some have succeeded to varying degrees. However, while bold, those attempts often only touch the surface. Usually, a particular element of a few dishes – inevitably including chicken rice- will be showcased. The less bold menus will highlight only individual flavours.
Don’t get us wrong. They’re great first steps, but one could hardly have a couple of tomato and herb based drinks on the menu and call it an “Italian-inspired Cocktail List”. So it has been with Singaporean food.
Till now that is.
Chicken Rice Paradise
If asked what we’d consider to be a true-blue Singaporean bar, we’d have to say Nutmeg and Clove. There might be more avante-garde, high-concept bars in this town, but for simple charm and consistent dedication to local flavours and culture, this would be our pick.
It seems almost strange to say that they’ve only recently come up with a full cuisine-inspired concept. While they’ve taken explored the historical local ingredients before, they’ve not dived into actual dishes until now.
Their new menu, Flavours & Memories Vol. 3 “Tasty Origins of the Five Pillars” pays homage to the races of Singapore and local favourites.
To get the obvious out of the way, there is indeed a Chicken Rice inspired drink, the Maxwell Martini. Chicken rice gin distillate, cucumber and ginger vermouth, sesame, chilli and cilantro oil are stirred into an authentic representation of the actual dish.
The flavours of the dish are not mere notes in the cocktail. Rather, the drink is what we’d imagine liquid chicken rice would taste like. The sweet chicken flavour, the spicy chilli and the sesame oil are almost chewable in our mouths. Lest we give the wrong impression, it’s not merely the presence of the ingredients used, but the proportions and combinations that make it taste like the actual dish.
Spice and Everything Nice
The Masala Fizzle doesn’t disappoint either. It’s a balanced combination of whiskies, masala why, vermouth, coffee and soda. There’s plenty of honeyed flavours in it, but they’re accentuated with subtle and nuanced spice- not baking spices, mind you, but those found in your curries.
There’s a nice grain flavour and smokiness that give it a nice layered backbone. Despite all of that, it’s mild, pleasant and strangely refreshing- we certainly didn’t expect that from a whisky and curry cocktail!
The Slinging Rojak proves to be a real highlight as well. Not quite a salad, not quite main course, the sweet-sour dish gets translated into a drink that has elements of tanginess, smokiness and a generous helping of green vegetable flavours; cucumber and tequila can work surprisingly well together. On top of everything else is a generous layer of crushed peanut flavours. Refreshing and yet true to its origins.
If the success of the Nasi Lemak burger in Singapore was anything to go by, locals can’t get enough of the dish, whatever the form.
To that we say, we get it. The creaminess and fragrance of coconut rice and pandan filling the nose. Savouring the umami crunch of ikan bilis and peanuts fried to a golden crisp. Warming the tongue with the sweet, mellow fire of sambal chilli. A beautiful experience disguised as breakfast food.
Or, in this case, the Lemak Martini, which contains all the elements of the above, translated almost perfectly into the glass- save the friend chicken.
Contemporary Classics
Those who seek something more modern will be glad to know that The Golden Duck and the Bloody Crabs were on point. The former was based on the salted egg potato chips that have taken our island by storm and makes a fair attempt of it. The result actually reminds us more of the humble “liu sha” (salted egg crusted) bun, with its creamy yolk flavours and a thick, creamy texture.
The latter was a union of Chilli Crab and the venerable Bloody Mary. It’s actually a little surprising that this wasn’t tried before, since there’s plenty of overlap between the two; tanginess, spice and rich, full-flavoured goodness. Crabmeat added umami and sweetness to the Bloody Mary, and the spice and tomato added a certain perk to the dish.
A Lingering Sweetness
Singaporeans have a sweet tooth. Such a sweet tooth, in fact, that we’re a little surprised that we’ve not realised that before. Go to an average hawker center in Singapore, and one can easily find dozens of types of desserts and sweets on offer, from all origins; Malay, Indian, Chinese, Eurasian and sometimes even Western.
The Auntie Sugee, based on the eponymous Eurasian cake, captures the butter, cream and almond profiles of the spongy confectionery- along with the fruity notes of rummed raisins that the aunties snuck into the fluff. While each and every Eurasian family guards the recipe jealously, we find that this brings back some sweet moments from our childhood. It’s still a little sweet for us- and so, like the cake, we prefer just a bite.
And to cap it all off, the Roses and Lychees. This one seems most apt; it’s based on bandung, the rose syrup and condensed milk drink that we gulp down with our roti prata suppers.
The cocktail captures the aromas well for sure; a seductive scent of roses wafts from the glass. The flavour is perfect- the honey sweetness of ripe lychees meets floral creaminess, bridged deftly by light savouriness. It’s even rich and luxuriant in texture, though not creamy like actual bandung.
One can see that as an improvement; it certainly feels cleaner and lighter.
Summing it all up
The menu is very impressive; instead of gimmicky nods to Singaporean cuisine, the team at Nutmeg and Clove clearly shot way higher. It’s almost trite to say this, but we think that each drink embodies the essence of the dish it’s based on.
All that would be for naught if the drinks were indistinguishable from the food, but proved undrinkable. No fear there; the cocktails were lip-smackingly good. Well balanced where appropriate (the sweet drinks were clearly made to be sweet). Diverse and layered in taste. Beautiful and tasteful in presentation.
There’s very little to criticise, but for one point. If you hate Singaporean cuisine, you won’t enjoy this.
As for us, one thing is clear: we’ll sure to be make many return visits.
Nutmeg and Clove
