As far as wine goes, we have to admit that we’re a little biased in favour of the Old World.
The fruit of the vine springs from the soils of Europe, and has for two millennia. The wines of the New World, America and Oceania- Australia and New Zealand- have been there for two centuries, if that. Case closed, right?
Well, not quite. We tasted some wines recently that gave us a new fantastic point of view.
I can show you the World
We’ve talked about terroir before; the conditions of where wine grapes are grown influence the wine made from them. The altitude, the sunlight, the soil, the water, and even the wind, steepness and temperature all play a part in viticulture and winemaking.
Naturally (or not), the geography of the New World is different from the Old- not that the terroir is uniform in Europe. Even if the grape varietals are the same, they take on different characteristics. Examining French Syrah and Australian Shiraz is instructive; they’re actually the same grape (possibly originating in Persia!). However, while the former tends to yield lighter, plummy flavours, the latter gives off richer, jamlike flavours. Both tend to have a black pepper note.
Now, it’s not just that terroir that changes how the wine turns out; the winemaker’s influence plays a big part too. The vintner has to make wines that his customers like, and it’s clear that tastes differ across countries and regions. Even the culture, beliefs and philosophies of winemaking vary.
So why mention all this?
Well, the New World and the Old are, to put it plainly, different places. The wines are quite different and one should not expect them to taste the same. In fact, one should not even tar Australian and American wine with the same brush.
Now, knowing that, we still prefer lighter, more elegant wines, which we were convinced were mainly found in the Old World.
Don’t you dare close your eyes
The New World is (relatively) new, and winemaking traditions aren’t quite as established compared to the Old. The grapes themselves are almost always European varietals (though in rare cases, the native ones find their ways into the vat). As with Shiraz, not all of them behave as expected.
We tried the Tar & Roses Pinot Grigio 2017, grown in the Victoria region of Australia. Pinot Grigio has its origins in France, where it was known as Pinot Gris (“Grey”) for its ashen colour. It made its way across Switzerland, Northern Italy, across the Atlantic and Pacific and into California, where it is popular. In Australia, however, it is relatively new and rare.
This particular Pinot Grigio had aromas of gooseberry, lemon, lime, kiwifruit and green apples. The fruitiness translated well into the palate itself, which remained refreshing. We found lemon, yuzu, pears and green apple, with a medium acidity and a nice, soft texture. Overall, a well made wine, distinct from rounder French Pinot Gris, heavier California Pinot Grigios and mineral-influenced Italian Friuli-Venezia Giulia wines.
No one to tell us no
Even the Sangiovese, a notoriously finicky grape to grow outside of its native Tuscany and its surrounding regions, found its way across the seas to Australia and the Americas, thanks to Italian immigrants. The overseas Sangiovese industries can be described as nascent, however, and experiments have yielded somewhat mixed results.
We think that the Tar & Roses Heathcote Sangiovese 2017 might have changed our minds, however. The Victoria-grown grapes yield a wine that has a powerful acidity, much like its forebears, but add blackberries and earth on top of the traditional dark cherry, prune and leather aromas.
There is tannin present on the palate, but nothing distracting. We find a well-balanced combination of citrus, dark plum, sour red cherries and a pinch of spice in the wine, which make it a pleasure to drink (and recommend).
The Tar & Roses Heathcote Tempranillo 2017, too, was quite interesting. The Spanish grape is often made into rich, full-flavoured wine, and this continues that tradition, with plummy and floral aromas (violets, we suggest) on the nose. The wine itself had supple tannins, with rich flavours of ripe strawberries, dark cherries and prunes forming its base. Leather, spice and a slight umami note add depth. An excellent Tempranillo- which was not made in Spain.
When looking at Australian wines, none is more emblematic than the Shiraz. Though plentiful, there are still variations in flavour and quality, and The Tar & Roses The Rose Shiraz 2014 impressed on that count.
While we got the dark berry, plum, and black pepper notes common to the Australian style, we also found anise and cherries. Mellow yet paradoxically full- flavoured, the firm structure gave it an air of elegance blended with power. Not always easy with such a powerful flavour, and we often find that attempts falls short of the mark.
A dazzling place I never knew
Wine isn’t new to North America, and certainly not the USA. While the first winemakers were the settlers on the East Coast, the gem of today’s market is California. The Golden State boasts deep valleys, rich soil and mild climes- a winegrower’s paradise- and they know it.
Now, California isn’t exactly an undiscovered gem nowadays; about ninety percent of all American wine is made there, outstripping the entire production of Australia.
The crux lies in whether one enjoys the style of wines that are made there; and to be perfectly honest, we are often overwhelmed by the heavy, full bodied style often found in the region. We personally prefer delicate, less robust wines.
There are always exceptions though,we find ourselves enjoying the Orin Swift Mannequin 2016. A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat grapes, it has an inviting aroma of cream, stone fruit, grapefruit and lemon zest. The wine itself has a medium acidity that smacks of lemon and grapefruit, apricots and buttery pastry flavours.
We find the overall effect pleasant- almost like enjoying a nice spot of lemon curd. However, despite the acidity, the cream does really weigh it down if one partakes in extended drinking.
With new horizons to pursue
More to our taste was the Orin Swift Abstract 2017. It has arboreal aromas aplenty; green trees, moss, mint, basil, licorice, violets, lilac, pepper and strawberry. The palate is dry and tantalisingly complex, juxtaposting fruity blackcurrant, cranberry and strawberry notes with minty green, basil, and spice.
What’s fascinating is the combination of grape varietals that make up the wine. Grenache and Syrah are the gems of the Rhone in Southern France. Petit Sirah, though a cross originating in France, remains rare worldwide, finding a bastion in California. Finally, Zinfandel finds its origins in Croatia and Italy, hit its stride in the US. One can easily find echoes of America’s immigrant story in the grapes.
The Orin Swift Eight Years in the Desert 2017 continues that theme, blending Syrah, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel masterfully. The nose is floral, a potpourri of dried lilac, roses and the smells of a forest floor. We find a nice blackberry and fig sweetness, as well. On the tongue, a melange of rich, jammy flavours; berries blue, black and red with a smattering of chocolate and soft tannins.
A fabulous wine that is anything but traditional!
I’ll chase them anywhere
And finally, we find ourselves with the wines that California is rightly famous for. The Orin Swift Palermo 2015 and the Louis M Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 are quite different, despite both being Californian Cabs (though Orin Swift hails from Napa, and Louis M Martini from Sonoma).
While both have the characteristic blackberry, blackcurrants and plum flavours of the varietal, the Orin Swift expresses it with raw fruity power and the Louis M Martini gives it a fresher, more elegant take. Where the former gives more herb and spice notes, the latter gives more earth. Where the former would go well with food, the latter would suit easy-drinking.
Yet both are excellent, showing complexity and clear structure. In their contrasts, they show off the dynamism of Californian wine.
A thrilling chase, a wondrous place
While Old World wines have captured our imaginations for so long, our voyage to the New World has convinced us that a whole new world awaits us.
What really makes us sit up in our chairs are that grapes not considered to be “international” varietals are now finding their way into beautiful wines. As winemakers in America and Oceania come into their own, familiar friends find fresh forms.
We live in exciting times. We can’t wait to see what’s next.
If you’re interested in picking up Tar & Roses wines, check them out at Le Vigne or Redmart. If you’re in the mood for Orin Swift or Louis M Martini, look for Malt and Wine Asia.
