Now that signs of recovery from The Virus are starting to appear, travel might become a serious consideration again at the end of the year, or hopefully, sooner. I thought it would might finally be time for me to discuss some Global Travel Retail spirits again.
So. The Macallan Concept Number 2 has been on my to-publish list for a while now. Chatter about it has been relatively muted thanks to the global situation, but I think it deserves a closer look.
A New Concept
It’s not the first time I’ve looked at a travel-exclusive Macallan. I’ve already covered the Quest collection and made some oblique references to the 1824 series, but this is the first time I’ve considered a Concept series whisky in earnest.
I’m going to make a qualification here: I missed out on the Concept Number 1, so there’s a bit of context missing. All’s not lost, however. After a fair bit of research, I got the impression that other than the broad structure, the two Concept whiskies are not all that similar. Still, that’s why I’m not going to compare the two Concept whiskies.
That said, in terms of lineage, I’d suggest that the Concept series is to the Quest series what the Edition series is to the age-expressioned core range. Concept and Edition have some marked similarities in how it is presented; from the lack of age statement, to the cask elements mostly taking a secondary role. There’s no “sherry cask” or “triple cask” stamped on their faces. They let a…concept take the reins.
The Concept series is even more focused than the Editions, and are anchored quite specifically on “innovative art, music and culture”. The Concept Number One was linked to surrealist art, and now the Concept Number 2 delves into music- I can only assume the last in the trilogy, the Concept Number 3, will feature culture as its core idea. It seems like a challenging space to work with; abstractions and performance pieces are hard to translate into a bottle of Scotch.
Why am I going on and on about the concept? For an age statement whisky, or even a cask release, it seems indulgent to dwell too long on the idea behind it. Usually, “does it taste good or not” tends to suffice. Usually.
However, for something relying so heavily on the ideas behind it for its packaging, marketing and perhaps, even the flavours within it, I think it’s fair to put the concept under the ol’ monocle (or ear-horn, as you prefer). The name says “Concept”, after all.
Musical Theory
Now, if I were to ask you what kind of music would fit the image of Scotch whisky best, what would be your answer?
Perhaps its the stereotypical wail of bagpipes or the electric scream and booming bass of a rock anthem by, say, Nazareth. One might also think of the soft strumming guitars and light drumwork of Travis.
Well, apparently, Concept Number 2 is even more modern than that. The innovative music referenced by Macallan comes from the turntable and synthesiser, those most modern of musical instruments. The Concept Number 2 was made by Steven Bremmer, The Macallan Whisky Maker and also, avid house music DJ.
I’ll let him explain his thought process in his own words. It’s going to be important.
“Creating a track and crafting a single malt can take a similar path. Beginning with the layering of sounds just like the layering of different flavours from specific cask types.
Each different cask brings its own influence to the character of the liquid, like each instrument, or sound, adds depth to a track. In both cases, we can alter each different element to play up or down particular sounds or flavours.”
Steven Bremmer, The Macallan Whisky Maker
Now, as far as the description of the approach of layering flavours, or using and altering cask elements to add depth goes, I can say I’m quite convinced that it’s true. It’s not outlandish or boastful, and I quite like the idea behind crafting the flavours. I think music is much the same. No incongruity there.
My problem is not that what Concept Number 2 is claiming is untrue or unfair. The issue I have is that it’s quite a generic way to express the idea.
There’s nothing specific in that approach that applies only to Macallan or what makes their whisky special, or even something that would highlight specific things in their whisky. The concept of layering flavours as if they were like sounds, described in the way that it was, sounds like it might apply to other, equally respectable distilleries and expressions.
The idea of music innovation doesn’t burst out either; there’s nothing specific that would have linked the Concept Number 2 to the disk jockey rather than the orchestra. Unlike the Concept Number 1, which flipped the production process, maturing the whisky in sherry casks, then finishing in ex-bourbon, I can’t find much that I would consider to be unique.
In short, it doesn’t develop the idea or explore the metaphor to a degree that I would have liked.
Compare and contrast to the tribute to classic Macallan style that is Edition No.4, the complex aromas of the fragrance-focused Edition No.3 or even the philosophical application of colour in Edition No.5. Each had something interesting new to say or explore about its theme. Concept Number 2, on the other hand, while palatable, doesn’t hit the high notes here in its concept.
Let’s see how it works in the execution.
Tasting Notes
Nose: Reminiscent of classic Macallan. There’s plenty of candied orange, and even a bit of milk chocolate. Some vanilla and apple pie filling. Oats and a little bit of honey, as well. There’s a bit of spice; a bit of ginger and cinnamon. It’s approachable but not effusive.
Palate: A sweet and fruity start. Dominant flavours of orange, apple pie, apricots, ripe blackberry and dried lemon rind. There’s some candied ginger and a tiny bit of macadamia nut in the midnotes, and spices start to emerge at the tail end. A tight modulation; no sharp rises or falls, or great shifts in flavour. Overall, it’s quite pleasant and mellow.
Finish: Fairly mild and of middle length. Persistent tannin, cinnamon and clove flavours.
Musical Practice
I tried the Concept Number 2 several times with some time in between sessions, so I think I gave it a fair go.
Overall, I find it to be an acceptable dram. It’s inoffensive, easygoing and will make for decent drinking when not dramming with the hardcore whisky crowd (who aren’t easy to please, by any stretch of the imagination). It’s an everyday drinking kind of whisky. Consider it to be a safe introduction to Macallan.
On the other hand, I don’t think the Concept Number 2 is necessarily for the seasoned whisky drinker. The same qualities that make the whisky perfect for beginners will be difficult for those who demand great intensity, length and complex interlacing of flavours and aromas.
That last bit feels most egregious to me, considering that it’s the whole idea behind the whisky. I was looking for variety and progression in flavour, shifts in intensity and marriage of complex harmonies. Perhaps something unusual or jarring.
I did not find any of that.
There’s no lilting allegro descending into haunting andante, only to rise to a jaunty minuet, and culminating in a molto allegro combining five diffferent themes! There was no story about Sergeant Pepper’s band being told through a concept album. I didn’t get orchestral music and an extended guitar solo by Slash. I heard no synthesiser layering on top of Elvis Presley’s voice.
The Concept Number 2 picks some good beats and (mostly) sticks with them. It doesn’t hit the high notes, nor the low ones. It’s less Thriller, more Happy. Perfectly pleasurable, but the heart doesn’t sing.
I won’t deny that we’ve been showered in an embarrassment of riches when it comes to Macallan’s offerings, but I can’t help but feel that there was missed opportunity with Concept Number 2. I had hoped to see it innovate and play with its musical theme. The salt in the wound is that you can still get the Edition No.5 for a similar (though not equal) price.
As a longtime Macallan fan, I’m a little disappointed by this one.
A Reprise and Finale
I was ready to go ahead and leave the review at that, but I think, in fairness, one last point has to be made about Concept Number 2.
It occurred to me that the points I made above might be a little on the high-concept side. I’m going to consider the basics and context of this Macallan.
Fundamentally, it is a travel retail whisky, meant for a broad audience. If we’re being honest, it’s often going to end up as a gift rather than as the jewel on the mantlepiece. It is in this aspect that I think the Concept Number 2 excels.
While I think its mellow flavour works against it in the whisky aficionado circles, I suspect that many recipients of this whisky would in fact appreciate that very same quality. It’s a very agreeable Scotch, unlikely to be rejected.
On top of that, the packaging is simply gorgeous.
I normally wouldn’t bring up a whisky’s appearance, but if this to be a gift, I think looks do count for something. The Concept Number 2 doesn’t even have to be wrapped up to be…presentable. Its deep purple packaging, complete with vinyl barrel motifs, are a breath of fresh air compared to the stodgy boxes that many spirits come in.
Don’t get me wrong. I don’t think all travel whiskies and people who drink them are focused on appearances or agreeableness, but I think many are, and Concept Number 2 would work for a sizeable group of travellers. If that sounds like you, great!
So, in closing, I offer this very strange conclusion. As a lounge whisky, I think the Concept Number 2 comes short in a few respects. As a gift, however, this is a Macallan that sounds great.
The Macallan Concept Number 2 is now available at travel retail in airports worldwide.
Next: Back to the Islands.
