Being in a wine bars is a bit like shopping in the average bookstore.
Shelves stacked to the ceiling, overflowing with the merchant’s wares. Everything from Botticelli paintings to inkblots adorn each bottle, or book.
A scant few words on the back describe the contents within. Teasing- but about as informative as your average presidential campaign poster.
Yes, wine bars and bookstores both have the same small problem. We often judge them and their wares by their covers.
Judging by the cover
When we walked into Ma Cuisine, our initial impressions were formed by a set of drained bottles sitting casually by its door. Richebourg, Vosne-Romanee, Dom Perignon. These are high-end wines that would set oenophiles to the “salivate” setting.
These are bottles that can have prices in the five figures. It was a little intimidating, we admit. A bit like being picked up for your date in a Ferari- that you’ll have to pay for.
After the initial shock, we were settling comfortably into the restaurant, which felt like a marriage of bistro and neo-industrial hipster joint; indeed, it had more in common with a casual restaurant than a chandelier-ed Chateau.
And then, we saw the menu.
The Book
The menu bears little resemblance to that of the average bar. It is, in fact, less a menu than a leather-bound book. There are over 600 bottles listed into its pages, which makes Ma Cuisine’s collection one of the most extensive in Singapore.
To put a precise figure on the number of wines in it would be pointless, and so would putting it online. Leafing through the menu, we notice small, neat markings indicating wines that have been sold- and perhaps, gone forever. For some of the vintages, only a small stock of 2 to 3 bottles are available.
That is, to us, as it should be. A focus on large volume wines often means a compromise in distinctiveness- and perhaps quality. To get old vintages of wines rare to begin with is no small task, so this is a unique opportunity for treasure seekers.
The book is the work of the young owners of the establishment, Anthony Charmetant and Mathieu Escoffier. Sporting Dali-esque moustaches, they come across as both friendly and fiery as they outline their philosophy.
They decry the close minded and the traditional back home- there is French wine at Ma Cuisine, but those of other regions share the stage. Instead of the popular, they focus on the unique, with bottlings. Instead of fixating on famous labels and winemaking fads, they focus on flavour.
They are, without doubt, rebels with wine in their veins. But they’re glad to help you navigate the massive wine list.
And, finally a peek into the contents
The expensive stuff is there of course- there’s a 1958 Château d’Yquem going for a hefty $1,522. Yet, for the value seeker, there is a rich bounty to be had.
The Chardonnay Champ Perrier Domaine Tessier 2014, for instance, is a good quality Burgundy, full of lemon, green apples, and light butter and oak notes. What’s surprising is that it’s considered to be a Village Burgundy, 2 steps removed from the high-priced Grand Crus.
The Domaine Pierre Duroché 2014 from the Gevrey-Chambertin region is also quite a gem. The elegant wine exhibits the classic Pinot Noir characteristics of red berries, wood and earth. If one wants to go further afield, the Côtes du Rhône “Khayyam” 2015 Domaine Mas de Libian ($78), is full-flavoured, viscous wine flush with red fruit.
Should one wish to venture to the somewhat less explored regions of France (at least to Singaporeans), there are crisp Sancerres, rich Tannats and powerful Vacqueyras wines. It’s not just the French wines that are available, either. There is a Penfolds Grange lurking in the cellar, the odd Sicilian wine, and even some Hungarian 6 Puttonyos Aszu wines.
Oh, and one of the largest selection of vintage and colheita ports in the region. We tried the fantastic White Colheita 1989 Barão de Vilar ($225), a smooth and supple wine with an unusual combination of citrus, fig, plum, nut and caramel flavours.
You’ll be hard pressed to find such a range anywhere else. We can’t recall the last time we saw more than two ports on a wine list.
Alas, a bittersweet ending
We respect a single-minded focus towards wine, but it does come with some sacrifices.
The food served was simple, delicious, and not distracting to the overall wine experience. The Le Jambon Persillé ($27), a homemade terrine of braised pork shoulder with garlic and parsley, was delicious. Juicy, and full of meat and herb flavours, it was an excellent accompaniment to a red Burgundy. The La Pissaladière ($19), a crisp anchovy tart hailing from Nice, was an interesting blend of savoury and caramel flavours.
Yet, despite the quality, the menu was small compared to the massive wine list. While not a flaw per se, should one be looking for a full, hearty dinner, than one might want to look elsewhere.
The other quibble we have is that wines are only available by the bottle. For wine aficionados and professional alcoholics, this might not be a serious obstacle, but one does not drop into Ma Cuisine for a quick pre-dinner drink. Nor does one traipse bereft of companions, unless one is prepared to quaff an entire bottle alone.
Summing it all up
Well, we’re very impressed by the range of the wine list. It was obviously a labour of love, and it shows. The prices are not the lowest, but where else are you going to get these wines?
Ma Cuisine might not be an everyday watering hole, but we can certainly recommend going there if you’re feeling adventurous and in need of new wine experiences. Just bring a friend along.
Want to find out what others thought? Check out what our friends at Parched and Spirited have to say.
