We’re quite focused on the drinks side of things, but there’s a place in our hearts for restaurants with a substantial drinks programme. There’s a good reason the industry is often referred to as “Food and Beverage”; a fact that’s forgotten all-too-often.
So, when we checked out the revitalised Le Binchotan, which features both dining and a fully bar, we walked in with open eyes- and jaws.
Kindling the Fire
We’ll admit that we were more than a little puzzled with the name of the restaurant. It sounded vaguely French and…something else that we couldn’t place our finger on.
The first clue turned out to be the sign at the door, which featured a black, wooden, almost flower-like emblem. It turns out that Binchotan is Japanese for a rare -and expensive- form of charcoal made from the Ubame oak. Unlike your garden variety wood, the charcoal can burn longer and cooler, ensuring a nice, even grill.
But when we speak of fire, we also speak of chef-owner, Jeremmy, who cut his teeth cooking at Iggy’s, Jewel Box and Sola in Paris. Now in his 30s, Chef Jeremmy took the opportunity to take over Le Binchotan when the previous owners and Japanese chef decided to hang up their hats.
So, the current incarnation of Le Binchotan is a Singaporean’s blend of French and Japanese cuisines. A manifestation of our nation’s cosmopolitan nature, perhaps.
A Flying Start
We started with the Uni & Caviar($25++), a classic combination of creamed Japanese corn cooked in bacon broth, topped with monstrous helping of bafun uni, sturgeon caviar, and a smoked sea salt flakes, then garnished with chopped chives and Shoyu pearls.
A flying start, with the excellent blend of textures coming from creamy, pudding-like uni, crunchy corn and bursts of flavour coming from the caviar and pearls. The flavours were harmoniously composed, with the creamy corn complementing the equally creamy uni, but adding a fresh, mellow sweetness to boot. The smoke and salt then layered on top of the cream, balancing the flavours and adding depth. It’s probably worth visiting Le Binchotan for this alone.
We also tried our first cocktail, the eponymous Le Binchotan($23++). We’re told that it’s Famous Grouse with a charcoal infusion, 3 different bitters, Amarena Cherry syrup, yuzu and togarashi pepper.
There’s a bit of everything; savoury, sweet and a light char. The hints of spice and wood from the whisky, and we presumed, the charcoal, gave this a solid foundation. We also found that there was a discernible bitterness that might be a bit too much. The togarashi, too, might prove to be too hot to handle; being the chilli-fiends that we are, we weren’t bothered.
Firing it Up
The mains are also dedicated to the binchotan theme, with the Edible Charcoal ($23++) perhaps flying the banner most proudly. While described as a piece of charcoal, it turned out to be a spring roll coated with fine bamboo charcoal and fried till crisp, then rolled in spicy chichimi togarashi and served with garlic yoghurt on the side.
The filling, too, was delicious. Angus beef short ribs slow-cooked in saikyo miso and port wine for 16 hours. The dish was a suitable juxtaposition of crispy and tender; the skin was so crispy that biting it caused and audible crunch, but the beef within was so tender it broke apart at a light touch of the fork. The short ribs had a plummy, sweet flavour that was nicely perked up with the spicy togarashi, then balanced out with the tart yogurt. Tasty.
Equally good was the Little Neck Clams ($20++). A broth of clams simmered in sake, with crunchy enoki mushrooms added to finish, then served over a vichyssoise of leeks, boiled potatoes and cream. The broth itself was flavourful, with the umami of clams mixed with the sweetness of sake. The fresh flavours were well accentuated by the juicy mushrooms and the green, grassy leeks. A light, but wholesome counterpoint to the chargrilled items on the menu.
The Char-Pork Jowl ($35++) returned us to the heavier flavours. Spiced pork jowl was confitted in duck fat and garlic, then grilled on the binchotan. It’s then served on a Japanese curry cream sauce with thinly sliced fried nagaimo (Japanese mountain yam) and green apple slaw.
As we had come to expect at Le Binchotan, the pork was so tender that it split apart at a light touch; no knife was required. The curry flavour was quite tasty, and had an interesting mild fruitiness to it. The green apple and yam reduced the heft of the dish, but it was still a little too much flavour for us, especially compared to the earlier dishes. If you’re looking for curry flavours, however, then this is top notch.
And the best part
Well, we’re saving the best for last. The Sakura Ebi Capellini ($27++) used both Japanese and Western ingredients. Sakura ebi was sauteed in olive oil, minced garlic and shio kombu, then pan-fried with the capellini and butter.
The noodles were lightly coated with the savoury-sweet flavour of ebi and kelp, but never dripped with excess oil. The texture was reminiscent of a properly tossed bowl of local noodles- neither too firm, nor too soft, but with a crunchy bounce that tingled in the mouth. It was done just right- and was incredibly tasty, to boot.
If you enjoy a bit of rice instead, the Mushroom Risotto ($29++) was excellent as well. The Akitakomachi rice was well and truly moist with the flavours of enoki and shimeiji mushrooms, and a good load of truffles to boot. It was savoury and earthy, as one might expect, but the sweetness of the mushrooms also came through. The truffles had the authentic rich aroma and subtle smokiness that enhance, and not distract from, the flavours of the dish.
And, for dessert, we liked the Smoked Chocolate ($15++). Dark Valrhona chocolate was cold-smoked with apple wood, then baked into a solid chunk quite similar to a brownie. We are told that it was stored in a smoky container until right before service, then topped with fresh blueberries and yogurt sherbet.
Its smoky flavour reminds us of a peated whisky- a Ledaig to be precise. Yet, it had just the right amount of sweetness, and its texture, somewhere in between a rich brownie and a soft block of chocolate, is decadently satisfying. Like an Olympic gymnast, this sticks the landing.
The drinks, too
Other than the signature drinks, we also sampled an Omakase Cocktail ($35++)– or cocktails, to be precise. The bartender, who is Japanese-trained, handed us three glasses- samples from which we chose our drink. With it being an omakase offering, the drinks change quite regularly, so you’ll have to make up your own mind if you like them or not. In our case, we found that while beautifully presented, all of them were a mite too sweet for us.
The bartender also makes classic cocktails on request, and those, we are happy to say, are up to par. We tried both the Highball and the Negroni, and they were as we liked them- well-balanced, structured, and with the familiar flavours that we enjoy. We suggest you give them a whirl if you enjoy the same.
Summing it all up
The dishes that we tried were creative, unpretentious, and most importantly of all, downright delicious. The Uni and the Ebi Capellini, in particular, were standouts. The drinks were competent, and the classic cocktails are more than serviceable, but the food was definitely the draw for us. There are plenty of places to eat in Singapore, but we daresay that you will hard pressed to find another one that offers the same quality of food at such prices.
This is not to say that dining or drinking at Le Binchotan will be cheap, but on those special occasions, or when you have a hankering for excellent Japanese-French cuisine, this should definitely be at the top of your list.
