Hendrick’s Neptunia and Hendrick’s Lunar Review: A Moonlit Sea

It’s certainly been a while since my last post. Since then, much has happened, but to my delight, I find myself picking up the metaphorical pen again.

I find it interesting that my last post was about the Hendrick’s Midsummer Solstice. In a way, it’s appropriate that I’m now taking a look at the Hendrick’s Lunar and the Hendrick’s Neptunia- the newest kids on the block. I don’t know what it is about Hendrick’s; either through the workings of destiny, or more likely, by pure coincidence, they chose my two favourite themes: the Moon, and the Sea.

Marvelous serendipity.

Hendrick’s Lunar Gin

The Hendrick’s Cabinet of Curiousities series is a touch more experimental than the typical gin. Since drinking is now a rather more emotional and cerebral process than it used to be, I think the right way is to evaluate two things; how much the theme resonates with me, and how the gin actually tastes.

It’s not really part of the marketing behind it, but I believe the concepts of “Lunar” and “Neptunia” are quite abstract and would be best enjoyed with a side of mental interpretation. If one is buying these gins, then it only makes sense that one would choose it in part for thematic resonance, and not just for consumption- though consume it we shall.

Basically; if the gin is selling you an idea, not just a sensation, then how well does it live up to that idea?

From Hendrick’s Master Distiller, Ms Lesley Gracie:

“It’s a feeling. That feeling when it’s a real dark, calm night, there’s a clear sky and the stars are out. I like that feeling and wanted to bottle that sensation of sharing stories under the stars. In the still of the night, you can get all sorts of smells – there are certain flowers that only release their scent under the light of the moon.

There is a peculiar sensory attachment to scents at night. Your body doesn’t react to aromas in the same way as during daylight. The darkness changes things, including how you respond to those around you, everything feels different at night.”

Now, there is a little room for interpretation; after all, I don’t live in Scotland (a pity!). That said, far across the oceans, I find that the description surprisingly resonant. Even come sundown, it’s still difficult to escape the bright lights and noise of the city. The bustle of the city recedes, but never completely disappears. So, what does stand out to me is the smell of night-blooms.

In particular, a very special flower called 夜來香, also called the Tonkin Jasmine or Telosma cordata. The Chinese name is very evocative; literally translated as “fragrance come the evening”. The plant lives up to its name- between sunset and moonrise, it releases a distinctive floral scent that fills the air with a kind of delicate sweetness. It’s also the name of a song first written in the 40s, then resurrected and popularised by the famous singer Teresa Teng.

Who, incidentally, also sang a sang called 月亮代表我的心 – The Moon Represents my Heart.

It would seem to all work out in a bit of serendipitous coincidence. Provided, of course, that the gin captures the aroma of fresh flowers blooming in the moonlight. I’m happy to say that it does.

The exact botanicals used in the gin are not public knowledge, though the familiar fragrance of roses is present, as it is in all Hendrick’s gins. Other than that, I do think I caught scent of honeysuckle, geranium, and dare I say it- Jasmine. Certainly, it seemed more floral to me than is typical. Compared to its Midsummer counterpart, it seemed lighter and more delicate, though no less floral.

As for the tasting…

Tasting Notes: Hendrick’s Lunar

Nose: Floral and fruity. The trademark rose is there, but is suppressed slightly by the aromas of honeysuckle, geranium and jasmine. A hint of spice and herbs typical for gins; juniper, coriander and perhaps a tiny bit of pine. Beneath that, a spray of freshly cut oranges, grapefruit, and lemon peel.

Palate: Fruity to start; the aforementioned orange peel and lemon zest come through strongly, but briefly. It transitions quickly into a spicy aspect- black pepper and juniper practically leap out of the glass. Underneath it all, a delicate floral sweetness.

Finish: Peppery and somewhat “hot” due to an emergent alcohol bite.

Overall, I like the Lunar. A pleasant sipper and a little different than the typical London Dry, though not radically so. Mild and floral- this is not a gin full of brazen bombast, but a little more subtle and restrained. Exactly how I like it.

On the other hand, I did not like the somewhat peppery and hot finish- and that does take off a few points off the “score”. It’s not a dealbreaker.

Hendrick’s Neptunia Gin

If the idea of the moon is abstract, then the idea of the sea is somewhat less so. The Neptunia, the second and newer of the two gins, was conceived at the Hendrick’s Gin Palace, located on the rugged Ayrshire coast of southwest Scotland. Master Distiller Ms. Lesley Gracie got the inspiration for this gin from walks along the local beaches.

“Most of my creations are based on memories – I play around with botanicals and combine them to recreate certain sensations. Hendrick’s Neptunia, for me, is that freeing feeling of the sea bottled in a gin.

You have that distinctive fresh character of coastal herbs, depth of flavour from the sea botanicals and an unmistakable clean, bright citrus finish that lifts and lightens in a round, refreshing way that makes it Hendrick’s.”

Now, if there’s something that we have here in abundance in Singapore, it’s sun and sea- the murmur of waves and the scent of brine are no strangers to us here. Personally, I love the sea- so my expectations of a gin that seeks to capture the feeling of the sea in a bottle are high indeed. Will there be a gin that challenges the idea of what can be put in a bottle?

So, I’m a little sad to say that I’m not sure if there’s anything particularly groundbreaking thematically- the idea of seaside botanicals has been explored before in other gins- some even produced in Scotland. It doesn’t spark my imagination in a new, heretofore unseen way.

That is not to say that that makes the Neptunia a bad gin by that measure- most spirits use similar botanicals anyway! I confess that I am still drawn to the broad appeal of an oceanic gin. Let’s see what verdict the tastebuds pass.

Tasting Notes: Hendrick’s Neptunia

Nose: A very mild whiff of brine to start – it’s more subtle than distinct. Other than that, it’s recognisable as a Hendrick’s. Mild roses, juniper and coriander form the basic structure. It has a sharp citrus aroma- though definitely nowhere close to the Lunar’s level of fruitiness. Towards the tail end, there is a subtle herbal note- not medicinal; more culinary. Perhaps it’s thyme or fresh cut grass, but it does put one in the mind of a small herb garden.

Palate: Sweet and spicy to start. That herb garden, but with delicate sweetness, rather than medicinal punch. A peppery, spicy middle that goes on a little long for my taste. A touch of citrus, but more that of dry peels, not fresh slices of fruit bursting with juice. If you’re looking for the tang of the sea- well, it’s there- but it’s not front and center. The savoury notes do emerge when time is given for the gin to open up.

Finish: Peppery, but finally, the taste of the ocean rises from the depths to greet us. It does linger for a good long while, which is all to the good!

I’ve got a bag of mixed feelings about this one. I would not call it a bad gin by any means. It ticks the boxes that one is looking for in a quality modern gin. Well integrated flavours. The actual taste of juniper. A varied but not overwhelming set of tastes and aromas that one would find easy to build a cocktail around, or even sip straight from the glass. It even has some subtle marine qualities that one would look for in a gin named after the Roman god of the sea.

For me, where it does fall a little short is being bolder and more assertive about being a “sea gin”. I pictured Venus emerging from waves, borne from the ocean on a gargantuan scallop shell in Botticelli’s famous Primavera. Beautiful, sublime.

What I got was a good serviceable gin. I wouldn’t say no, but I’m not entranced by rapturous beauty either. Expectations are a tricky thing.

Everyday Drinking…

I see both gins as quite versatile when it comes to mixing. They’re both reasonable sippers, and can be used in a G&T with ease- and a certain amount of success.

The Lunar might be enhanced with something light and lemony- tonic and a squeeze of lemon, or spicy and fiery- ginger ale with lime or orange slices. In fact, the Hendrick’s folks recommend serving the Lunar in a Buck or Old Fashioned.

As for the Neptunia, the recommendation is for a Fizz, Gimlet or Red Snapper (akin to a Bloody Mary). I like the Gimlet best- it’s a little different from the G&T, which keeps things interesting.

I’ve tasted the recommendations. They’re easy to make and will fine companions on a hot day. More than fine, in fact. They’re quite obviously designed with simplicity in mind- who has time to make a ten ingredient drink at home, after all?

But if you know me, you know that I’m going to try something a little different.

…or Drinking in Style

Now this section is for the wild and wacky among you who want to do something a little more experimental- but at home, still. My go-to for having a bit of fun is the classic Gin and Tonic. If you want a quick refresher on my way of making one, check out the link.

For the Lunar, I was somewhat obsessed with the jasmine aromas in it- so I got my hands on some dried jasmine and used it for garnish. I like the result; it adds a bit of aroma to the G&T and a bit of visual flair- if you’re not keen on adding cucumbers. You can definitely add lemon slices and cucumber strips to spice if up visually, but I find it quite striking enough already- wouldn’t you agree?

Now, the Lunar itself is a bit on the citrusy-side, but with all that extra flower power going into the glass, I’d suggest using a tonic that can balance it out and perhaps even bring out the flavours. I tried the traditional tonic with a dip of lemon juice- that works fine. However, I particularly enjoyed combining it with London Essence Blood Orange and Elderflower Tonic. (I don’t get any kickbacks for that recommendation, by the way- or any recommendation, for that matter)

That particular tonic has fruity and floral components- perfect with the Lunar and a dollop of Jasmine garnish. If you want to try other tonics, perhaps East Imperial Grapefruit or Yuzu might work.

For the Neptunia, I wanted to draw out the savoury notes. There was a little agonising over how I’d do that- options such as making a homemade dashi broth, adding actual kelp (surprisingly available if you know where to get it), or even just adding plain old salt were considered.

But that would be a bit too much work, or cheating, in the case of adding salt directly. I went for something else that I think does work- plums. Or more correctly, Japanese ume. It’s a common enough ingredient that has fruity acidity and just as importantly- the savouriness I so craved.

It being out of season, getting an actual basket of the green fruit would have been difficult- or prohibitively expensive. So I went for the next best thing. Umeshu, of the commercially available variety (read, I picked it up at the supermarket).

At first, I added in just the preserved ume- which did add some nice flavour after a good soak in the glass. It accentuated the herbal flavours, added some fruitiness, and brought out the briny flavours I wanted. However, just one plum wasn’t enough, and two would look rather awkward.

I did the next best thing and added umeshu into my G&T- which would make it G,T&U. I tried it in a 1 gin : 3 tonic : 0.5 umeshu ratio and liked the results, though add as much as you think appropriate.

The tonic I used was standard London Essence, though I think Fever Tree Mediterranean or any other quality tonic would work.

Summing It All Up

Overall, I quite enjoyed both gins, though I’m rather partial to the Lunar. The Lunar hit all the right notes for me, thematically and tastewise. It might not be the best gin I’ve ever tasted, but I think it does enough that I’m happy to recommend it.

As for the Neptunia, I confess that I was hoping for more. It is a quality product, but I think it played it a little safe. That said, I can still recommend it; it’s a good sipper that does little wrong. It also lends itself to a bit more experimentation- the ume is just a starting point. More importantly, it’s available at a reasonable (but by no means cheap) price and can be obtained fairly painlessly online. These qualities are nothing to scoff at.

As they’re both limited edition, they won’t be around forever- which I believe is part of the appeal. I’m already a little bit late on the Lunar, but you should be able to buy it online, still.

For the Neptunia, it’s just released, so it should be easy to get it from Cold Storage, iShopChangi and WG&S brand stores on LazMall and Shopee.