We’ve always been fascinated with minimalism.
Being hoarders ourselves, we really enjoy a bit of chaos, a bit of excess. Surely if less is more, then more must be better.
Well, not quite.
Catching our Fancy
We walked into Fancy for the first time some weeks back. If there is one word we could use to describe our initial impression, it would be “unassuming” or perhaps “nondescript”.
The space it occupies is fairly large, and it feels large. Aside from the tables and chairs set wide apart, the space contains little else. The floor and walls are conspicuously bare. Ornamentation is almost nonexistent, save for a few pygmy vases, each containing a single flower. A single sign tells us that we are indeed at the right place.
Quite the misnomer, if one takes the name Fancy at face value.
The bar is, naturally, the centerpiece, and it is in itself fairly unusual. Solid slabs of white marble, are merged into a single level, “stack”, so when the bartenders finish making the drinks, they can quite literally slide them over. We were told that it was meant to encourage interaction, and we certainly believe it.
We were served our first drink, the Saffron (the page image), a gold coloured number topped with a gorgeous creamy head. True to form, the garnish is a single sprig of a herb we don’t quite recognise. The cocktail itself is fairly pleasant, a nice combination of pineapple, smoke, and the green flavours found in tequila. It is sweet, sour, and very agreeable.
Lightness of being
We know the people behind the bar. They’re friends, but more to the point, they’ve already made a name for themselves. Kim is the 2017 Diageo World Class Singapore winner, and Jayden the runner up. The duo cut their teeth at the Jigger and Pony Group, but have now struck out on their own. They’re as unpretentious and friendly as they come.
Still, it can’t be easy, even with a resume of this calibre. It’s one thing to make drinks, another to own a bar. We ponder that as we sip a Rose, a take on the classic Bellini. It’s strikingly similar, yet very different. Like the original, the cocktail in front of us is light and refreshing, with tart wine acidity balancing the sweet flavours of summer peaches.
Fancy’s take adds on a floral aroma of roses, the spiciness of ginger, and the botanical, green flavours of gin. The result is a subtle but nuanced take on an Italian favourite.
Perhaps the Rose will encapsulates the entire concept of the bar. It’s approachable, not simplistic, but somehow uncomplicated and elemental. It’s not the classic Bellini, but the original is recognisable underneath the layers. Another oxymoron, another trick in a bar that’s full of surprises.
The team at Fancy is young as they come. All of the principals are under 30, including the chef. While not exactly starry-eyed younglings, the youthful energy and enthusiasm is palpable.
As if to prove the point, we try an octopus dish, which has nice spring to it. There’s a sweet tanginess from pineapple, and a spiciness that perks the dish up. It’s got a certain zest to it, but perhaps, it’s a little too salty.
Classics are classic
Kim explains the cocktail menu to us. As we had surmised, the drinks are twists on classics, with a floral theme at its core. At least for now.
Now, the “twist on the classic” movement is one that we’ve seen before. That doesn’t mean that it’s a tired category. The truffle fry is a twist on the classic pommel frites, and there are both delectable delights and utter rubbish sprouting out of the same dish. It all depends on how it’s done.
We try the Rosella, which is take on the Negroni made from rum, Campari, grapefruit and sparkling water. This is the test. We’ve definitely tasted at least a hundred different takes on the aperitivo – no joke. To say that we’re picky about out Negronis would be about the same as saying we like alcohol.
Kim makes us a tall drink. A single perfectly clear block of ice stabs into the bloody depths like a crystalline spear. On top of the iceberg is a single sprig of torched rosemary. We imagine an arctic sunset.
Imagination aside, the drink itself is pretty good. We find the expected bittersweet flavours, but none of the wine notes. Instead, it’s bursting with citrus and the sour flavours of rosella. It’s balanced on a knife point between clear and bright, and robust and flavoursome. It dances on that edge like a prima ballerina. We’re impressed.
The food, too, continues to impress. The Pan Fried Risotto ($22++) is a tasty treat indeed. We like the traditional soft, porridge-like texture, but we find ourselves swayed. Time on the pan gives the risotto a crisp, caramelised crust, while retaining a delectable moistness within. Plump king oyster mushrooms add a delectable texture. Balsamic currants and fried rosemary add a satisfying mix of sweetness and tartness. A real treat.
Sweet dreams
Dessert is equally good. The Rolled Filo ($16++) resembles a cross between a baklava and cannolli. An ethereal wafer crust wraps around a filling ricotta, orange zest, hazelnut, cardamom and beets. It is at once savoury, sweet, nutty, zesty and spicy, yet these flavours are well-integrated and somehow manage to be both rich and light as air.
In the mood for something sweet, we try the Orange Blossom, which is a Ramos Gin Fizz- with half the ingredients changed. Calvados, orange blossom, cream, butterscotch and egg white make for an extremely sweet drink. It resembles nothing more than a milkshake, and is about as sweet to boot. Sadly, we don’t taste much of the Calvados. We suggest treating it as a dessert.
We end off with the Osmanthus, which reminds us of a Vieux Carre. The combination of bourbon and chocolate is a classic one, but add a little sour and sweet from an osmanthus shrub, and it suddenly rises from cloying to delicate. A nice way to end the night.
Summing it all up
Needless to say, we are very impressed with the quality of both the drinks and food at Fancy.
While there are a few hiccups, we find that a kind of elegance and finesse that is both rare and desirable. The people are unpretentious and friendly, and there is absolutely no fuss in dropping in for a drink, or dinner, for that matter.
Quality, service, ambience. We’re glad that Fancy has chosen to focus on the essentials.
