The experience was surreal.
One is used to walking into bars. The dark, polished wood counters of an American-style establishment. The bare metal and concrete finishes of a speakeasy. Even the riot of colours and skull motifs of a tiki bar.
So, even though this was to be my first trip to a Caribbean lounge, I didn’t expect to be surprised when walking into the new Bago lounge, located above Jiak Chuan Street’s Lime House. I was wrong.
This was something else entirely. This was like walking into someone’s living room. Rustic cane furniture, standing lamps and the odd family photograph are artfully arranged throughout the second floor of a Jiak Chuan Street shophouse. Warm reds and oranges emit a mute appeal.
Owner Chris Morris, who hails from Trinidad and Tobago, wouldn’t have it any other way at Bago. He doesn’t even mind if you take a nap or play some checkers. The very name Lime refers to a Caribbean pastime of doing nothing but sharing good food, drinks and conversation while hanging out with friends.
When put that way, it actually sounds pretty familiar to most Singaporeans! Who doesn’t mind going out to lime a bit in our island food paradise, enjoying the balmy breeze and a “kopitiam” neighborliness?
Rum, Ron, Rhum
Being a Caribbean bar, one expects Bago to stock copious amounts of the region’s favourite spirit- and it does. There are over 150 different rums available from the bottle, hailing from all over the tropical world- and even Japan. That’s an astonishing number; I believe that’s the largest collection of rum in Singapore. Scanning the menu, I found some of my favourites: El Dorado 15, Plantation XO and even some Caroni rums. A winner in my book.
Unlike sister spirit whisky, rum comes from three distinct lineages. English Rum, Spanish Ron and French Rhum- fruits of competition between the European colonial powers in the 18th and 19th century.
- English Rum, such as that from Barbados or Jamaica, is heavier and mostly made with molasses. Key brands of rum are Caroni, Mount Gay and Appleton.
- If you prefer something smoother and sweeter, consider Spanish Ron, like those from the Dominican Republic and Venezuela. Brands such as Diplomatico, Havana Club and Abuelo are are also made from molasses.
- French Rhum, unlike its kin, is made from sugarcane juice, and tends to have a grassy, herbal flavour. They hail from former French colonies such as the French Indies and Martinique, among other regions. Good examples are Clément, Rhum Bielle and Neisson.
All this variety and freedom in making different styles and variations of rum symbolises, to me, the spirit of adventure. Drinking rum is akin to discovering a whole new world of spirit, each radically different from the last; in some sense, living the age of exploration and sail vicariously. Rum drinking should not be taken too seriously; it’s meant to be as fun and relaxed- a break from the strict structures of the other aged spirits.
Fortunately, while Bago is all about liming and being laidback, it doesn’t skimp on service. Head Bartender Davide Boncimino, formerly of Mr. Fogg’s Residence (one of the world’s 100 Best Bars 2015), was more than patient in guiding us through a tasting flight of rums- of all three styles.
Angostura 8 YO 1919 ($22++ / $340++). A heavier English rum in weight and texture. Banana and vanilla come right off the nose, with a bit of caramel and spice. Some dark wood appear towards the end. Good dram, quite complex.
Santa Teresa 1796 ($19++ / $270++) A relatively light Spanish-style ron. A shorter drink- the finish arrives much more quickly than the other two. A whiff of cocunut and cream, evolving to banana and toffee. The initial tastes on the tongue is banana and cream, slowly evolving into and ending with toffee and walnuts. Doesn’t linger very long, unfortunately.
Rhum Bielle Blanc ($17++ / $210++). A white (unaged) French style rhum. The usual strong herbal and grassy notes on the nose typical of white rums. Fruity sugarcane flavours in the forefront, and vanilla notes in the back. A good contrast to the other two, though not my choice for complexity.
Cocktails, as well
Bago is not just a place for sipping spirits. There are a large number of Caribbean-inspired cocktails available. Being an essentially tropical region, the Caribbean shares a lot in terms of flavours and even ingredients as Southeast Asia. Chris related that when he started out at Lime House, he was concerned that he would not be able to replicate the flavours of home. This turned out to be a non-issue; most of the ingredients needed were found easily at Tekka market. Kaffir Lime, Mandarin orange and other familiar ingredients appear in Bago’s cocktails.
By far my favourite was the Bajan Breeze ($20 ++), Mount Gay Eclipse shaken with fresh lime juice and a roselle (sorrel) syrup. A refreshing take on the daiquiri. Inviting spice notes were complemented by sweet and tangy flavours in the midpalate, ending with a slight lime bitterness. A medium body and superb balance makes this drink light on the tongue and not at all cloying. I could drink this all day and night.
I also tried the Morris ($27 ++), a drink named after Chris himself. Mount Gay Black Barrel, Clément Single Cask, cinnamon syrup and fresh coconut water form a sweet cocktail that reminds me of the local dessert bor-bor-cha-cha. Cream corn notes and coconut bolstered by light spices and a mild bitterness make for a very pleasant long drink indeed.
If you’re looking for a classic, Kingstons and Old Fashioneds are available, but why not try the Bago Build ($25++) and be surprised? Simply choose from a mood (adventurous, flirty, chilled out, etc.) and a taste (tropical, herbal, smoky,etc.) and the bartender will whip something up on your behalf. I chose adventurous and smoky and ended up with a concoction of light rum, dark rum, chocolate, Laphroaig and orange bitters. It might sound…adventurous, and it lived up to its name. Incredibly complex and layered with diverse flavours; the waves of chocolate, orange and smoke, with a surprisingly minty finish, made for a very interesting drink indeed.
Food
If you’re looking for food to go with drinks during your liming session, bar bites are available. Lime House provides the food, which is authentic Caribbean- the chef is a Barbados native. Caribbean fare is extremely flavourful, but not overly spicy. Think of it as a milder love-child of Thai and Indian cuisine. Standouts for me were the Mini Bakes and Fried Fish ($16 ++) and Sweet Potato and Salt Fish Medallions ($16++). Delicious, and so fresh you could taste the salt tang, they made for excellent companions to the cocktails.
Summing it up
The drinks and food were of excellent quality, and would definitely be draws on their own. Yet, what sets it apart, in my mind, was the extremely relaxed vibe of the lounge. I felt as if I had been transported half a world away to the Caribbean, leaving all worries behind. The hours simply melted away in that little red living room.
It’s hard to think of a better way to spend time. I’d definitely suggest making the trip to Bago and enjoying a few drinks.
Bago
Lime House level 2, 2 Jiak Chuan Road, Singapore 089260
For reservations: 6222 3130 or bago@limehouse.asia
Website: http://www.limehouse.asia
Opens from Wednesday to Sunday