We once described The Macallan as relentlessly creative.
We’re glad to say that my opinion hasn’t changed at all.
Let’s take a second to review. In 18 months, we’ve seen the Rare Cask, the Edition No.1, and the Double Cask– and that’s not even considering the travel and ultra high-end spaces. The fact that they’re all great products on their own and offer something different to the Macallan lineup say much about the effort has gone into keeping things fresh. How many distilleries can boast that much innovation in such a short time?
And now, they’ve gone ahead and released Edition No. 2.
Sibling Rivalry
When Edition No.1 was released, it broke a longstanding tradition by letting consumers know exactly which casks were used in the making of the whisky, the wood type of those casks and the number of fills they had . This tradition continues with Edition No.2- except that this time, The Macallan’s Master Whisky Maker Bob Dalgarno didn’t select all the casks by himself.
The Roca Brothers of restaurant El Celler de Can Roca- an establishment which has been voted best restaurant in the world twice- also chose casks of spirit to be blended into Edition No.2.
It is at this point that we should discuss sibling rivalry. We’re not talking about the Roca brothers- we’re referring to the Edition No.1 and its new brother (sister?). There will inevitably be comparison between the two; what else would people use to benchmark the new kid on the block?
While not necessarily a bad thing to use the original as a reference point, we should remember that it would be pointless to make another run of the same whisky. Without even tasting the Edition No.2, we expected it to be quite different, if only to prove that a distiller can make different styled whiskies without resorting to the generous application of peat.
Right off the bat, we looked at the components of the whisky that The Macallan has so generously provided. The original used eight oak cask types, and its successor only seven. European oak Tevasa butts, chosen by Bob Dalgarno, provide the rich dried fruit flavours to both siblings. Also returning are Jose Miguel Martin casks chosen by Josep Roca, the sommelier of the Roca trio, but now drawn from hogsheads and puncheons, instead of Edition No.1’s butts. The Jose Miguel Martin casks provide a ginger and allspice tinge that warms up the entire whisky. Finally, Vasyma casks chosen by Jordi Roca provide vanilla and citrus flavours to both editions.
New to the Edition No.2 are Diego Martin Casks of both American and European oak. They were selected by Joan Roca and provide green wood and toffee notes. Gone are the Gonzalez and Hudoza butts, which provided oak, tannins and green apple notes.
An observation here- we don’t think that the Spanish connection was coincidental. The Macallan has invested a great deal into oak and sherry from Spain, and this seems like a natural way to showcase the fruits of their labour.
Something Old, Something New.
Based on this alone, we expected that the Edition No.2 would be much richer in the sherry and spice flavours, while toning down the oak and citrus somewhat. On tasting, however, the flavours surprised us.
Nose: Spice and ginger hit immediately, but briefly, yielding quickly to cereal. Milk chocolate, baked apples, light oak, caramel, vanilla and finally apricot and raisins. An impressive perfume. Compared to the original’s gun salute of sherry and citrus, this is far lighter and more subtle
Palate: A silky and surprisingly light mouthfeel, almost as if eager to slide down the throat. We were greeted by spices and ginger, but they mellowed out into something that could only be described as pastry-like. Strong flavours of toffee, walnuts, hazelnuts, orange cream, baked apples and oak. Chocolate acts as a subtle undercurrent. The overall effect reminds us of tiramisu, or perhaps a delicious slice of orange gingerbread liberally drizzled with vanilla sauce. Much lighter in texture and oak influence compared to Edition No.1.
Finish: Medium length. Wood and coffee bitterness sits on the tongue long after the whisky has passed the throat. We also felt the warming sensation and flavour of ginger. We find that the No.1 has a greater length and strength compared to No.2’s somewhat light touch.
Overall, where the Edition No.1 was bold as brass and hit the nose immediately with strong, rich flavours, the Edition No.2 was far more subtle. Strangely enough, the best way we can explain the difference is by comparing a James Bond movie and a romantic comedy.
The former immediately attempts to draw people in with punches, gunshots, and perhaps a chase for good measure. There is a vibe of powerful masculinity, blended with style, elegance and sophistication, elevating it above the crowd. The latter is seductive, allowing people to get to know its character gradually, revealing new layers slowly, purposefully- and before you know it, you’re a little in love.
The Edition No.1 is closer to the style of The Macallan that most modern drinkers will be familiar with, while Edition No.2 departs from that safe space. Which brings us to the point. The two siblings are so different that any attempt to define “better” or “worse” quickly fall apart.
What we can say is that the Edition No.2 does not disappoint in quality, depth, complexity and overall experience, and we can gladly recommend it despite the medium finish. At $198 before GST, the price is very reasonable.
Midnight in the Garden
We don’t normally dwell on the events surrounding the introduction of a new dram, but in this case, it would be almost criminal not to.
A typical whisky event might involve a quick tasting in a restaurant or bar, with a modest pairing of food. If we’re lucky, it will include a small exhibit showcasing the malt, and perhaps even have a short video explaining the new product.
Well, the Macallan folks did better than that. They turned us into Hansel and Gretel, and brought us to an enchanted garden.
We were introduced to spring mushrooms made of toffee caramel and toffee bavarois placed amongst soil made of chocolate shavings.
We then proceeded to enjoy a cool summer with tubes of lemon ginger and a hanging globe spiked with yuzu gumballs, which brought out the citrus and ginger flavours,
Seasons passed and we came across a wall offered a plethora of sweets nestled amongst autumn foliage and hanging chocolate cherries.
The circle was complete when we emerged in a winter landscape, where white chestnut choux fell from the ceiling like snow.
The enchanted grotto was created by renowned pastry chef Janice Wong, who had a stint at El Cellar de Can Roca. We are impressed with her gumption; how many people dare to pair whisky with pastry? How many would put both in a fairytale land? That she managed to echo the flavours in Edition No.2 so unconventionally and increase our appreciation of the single malt was a feat unto itself.
This was both unique and unforgettable.
Summing It All Up
We are very impressed with quality of The Macallan Edition No.2, both in the whisky itself and the creativity and thought behind it. Few other whiskies can compare to this one, and we have no qualms in recommending that you pick up a bottle. We are looking forward to Edition No.3 more than any other whisky.
The Macallan Edition No.2 is available at a suggested retail price of $198, before GST, at 1855 Bottle Shop, The Oaks Cellars, La Casa Cubana, Kings Bar, The Olde Cuban and Five Square.
