As the local bar scene evolved over the years, we’ve noticed an increased sense of confidence and boldness, particularly when it comes to new concepts.
At the beginning, the idea of a bar celebrating Singaporean heritage and showcasing local ingredients was unheard of. As one British sitcom might put it- it would have been a “brave decision”. Then came the first waves of local-focused bars such as Nutmeg and Clove and Ah Sam’s Cold Drinks Stall. We then saw Native show up, and then Amrith.
And now, at the Shangri-La Hotel no less, we have Origin Bar.
A good trade
The hotel is no stranger to visitors from distant shores. For a long time, Shangri-La has been the hotel of choice for diplomatic meetings, conferences and the well-heeled elite in the region. It has always struck as odd that there isn’t a stronger local flavour to this hub of international activity. We’re glad that Origin has now emerged to share at least a tiny bit of the Little Red Dot with the world.
It might be a bit of a shock to learn that the Bar Manager is not a Singaporean at all. Slovakian Adam Bursik is the mastermind behind the menu.
Of course, Adam is no slouch at bartending; most recently, he was in the finals of the Diageo World Class Singapore. He’s been in Singapore for quite a while, including a stint at both Nutmeg and Clove and The Library. At both establishments, there were strong local flavours, both in the drinks, and in the themes of the bars.
A nod to history
Yet, Origin is its own bar, with its own theme; the menu is inspired by historical districts of Singapore: Orchard, Chinatown, Little India, Boat Quay and Marina Bay (though that last one might perhaps be called Modern History).
Every cocktail reflects the colours, flavours and history of its particular district- and there is indeed a deep well of culture to draw from if one cares to look.
The signature cocktail, Origin (S$22++), is of course inspired by the historical Orchard Road, which was home to home to pepper and nutmeg plantations in the 1880s. Consisting of gin, sugarcane honey, nutmeg, pepper, charred pineapple and lime husk wine, it arrives with a slice of candied pineapple on the side.
The initial attack is that of sweet pineapple and honey, balanced by a citrus acidity towards the midpalate. It then takes on spicy, herbal and slightly bitter note that creates depth and interest. A pleasant drink, but we find it a tad sweet at the start.
For a bit of a change, we moved to Chinatown, where we enjoyed the Safari Tea (S$22++). A combination of Monkey Shoulder, jackfruit marmalade, bamboo and chrysanthemum, it has that same sweet initial attack as Origin.
It’s quite unusual, with a sharp spike of initial flavour that tapers off quickly into an interesting interplay of sweet- tart, floral and bitter.
Going further afield
We fell in love with Little India’s Million Dollar Fee ($26++), an unlikely libation of saffron, coconut distillate and -quite unexpectedly- Champagne.
It’s an elegant combination- simple yet seamlessly-integrated. Sweet, dry coconut goes splendidly with the yeasty, nutty aromas of the Champagne. The saffron then adds a subtle, mellow spiciness that perks up the cocktail. The drink transitions effortlessly from crisp acidity to mellow sweetness. Very tasty.
The Sanic ($22++) celebrates Boat Quay’s internationalism- Singapore’s first and most important center of commerce for a century. It does a wonderful impression of a Gin and Tonic, if a Gin and Tonic was invented in this part of the world.
Sake takes the place of gin, and a combination of sharp yuzu and mellow kumquat replaces the traditional lime. There is a nice touch of kaffir leaves on the nose to give it a thoroughly exotic feel.
And back to the future
The Pearl ($26++) must surely be the jewel of the Orient- a Singaporean Venus rising from the waves of a Botticelli painting. Exquisite presentation aside, the combination of Tofu, elderflower, sea grapes, mugi shochu and Black Forest Gin is quite magical. The texture and flavours are mild and silky. It is redolent with berries, an almond-like flavour and a wonderful savoury note that tantalises the tastebuds.
Now, if you’re a bit cheeky and willing to drink something off the menu, consider the excellent Crystal Russian. It’s retains the coffee flavours of a Black Russian, but has a clean texture and presentation that we found irresistible. The coffee flavour isn’t kopitiam- authentic, but all was forgiven with its nuanced blend of bitterness, char and sweetness.
The Negroni was also fantastic- a reflection of the thought that went into it. Instead of a single vermouth being used, a blend of Cocchi Rosso, Martini Rosso and Barolo Chinato was stirred with the gin and Campari. The resulting cocktail was strong, bracingly bittersweet and had superb balance and nuance.
Summing it all up
Origin has a string of great drinks lined up, some of which are both distinctive and exceptionally delicious. It manages to adhere to its theme in quite a graceful, subtle way; nothing is on-the-nose, nothing feels forced. A mark of great thoughtfulness, we think.
As for the prices- they are quite reasonable for a hotel bar in Orchard Road, so the singes in the wallet will not be particularly large. We can happily recommend Origin Bar as a place to be.
Want to find out what others thought? Check out what our friends at Parched have to say.
