Alcohol is one of those great shared experiences in human history.
It is most uncommon for a culture not to have created its own unique spin on booze at some point in its history; certainly each continent, excepting Antarctica, has its own unique product.
We’ve discussed whisky, gin, rum, wine and beer, but precious little digital ink has been spilled on South America’s spirits. Tequila and mezcal have gained in popularity recently, and represent a sharp contrast to the old world spirits. One recently spent some time at Super Loco Customs House attending a masterclass about the two spirits, and it turns out there’s a lot more to them than meets the eye.
A labour of love
Consider the plant from whence the two spirits are made from. The agave is a large, aloe-like plant (which is ironically a member of the lily family) that grows in the arid deserts of Mexico. There are over 300 species of these plants, though in practice, only 30 or so are viable for spirit production. Any spirit made from these 30 species of agave might be considered a mezcal, but only those made with Blue Agave are called tequilas. Interestingly enough, Mexican laws forbid any producers from making both types of spirit- it’s one or the either.
One should note that the typical agave plant takes between five to twelve years to mature. Once the plant is ready, the heart, or piña, of the agave is extracted, usually by judicious application of physical labour. As one might expect from a process which involves literally ripping the heart out of the plant, each agave can only be harvested once. The decade long maturation period of the plant starts again after each harvest.
The rest seems comparatively boring by comparison. The piña is cooked, and shredded to extract the sugars used in spirit production. Mezcal tends to be made using the traditional method of cooking the piña in fire pits, which trap smoke from the burning charcoal fuel. This tends to give the mezcal a smokier flavour than tequila, which employs industrial stainless steel ovens. This, and the varieties of the agave used, are the main sources of the divergence in the two styles of spirit.
The extracted sugars are then fermented, through the application of yeast, to produce alcohol. The raw alcohol is then distilled to produce spirit. It’s not just the big companies making the tequila or mezcal through the judicious application of technology, however. Farmers themselves make their own spirit using traditional methods, up to and including using a cattle-operated mill to shred the piña. These farmers are naturally quite proud of their own product; it is artisanal, and production is very limited.
A touch of class
Bianco is the clear, un-aged product that results from the distillation process, which tends to give a raw, unvarnished flavour. At the masterclass at Super Loco, we were treated to Artenom 1549 Blanco ($14+/$280+) . A valley tequila, it has all the distinctive herbaceous nose that its pedigree suggests, as well as a lemony note. It is quite sweet and spicy on the initial tasting,. but develops grass and earth in the middle. The finish is bitter and herbal, and carries on for at least a good twenty seconds.
Reposado describes agave spirits aged in wood barrels for two to eleven months, but no more. This knocks off some of the rougher ages of white spirit and transfers a comparative smidgen of the wood flavours into it. Ocho Cerrito San Agustin Reposado ($16+) was a good example of the style. It is a pale gold, thanks to its brief dalliance with the wood. It was peppery at first, but takes on lemon characteristics in the middle, then finishing with the characteristic herbaceous flavour of tequila. More mellow than the blanco.
Añejo spirits are aged in wood barrels for a minimum of twelve months. To start off, one tried the Purasangre Añejo ($20+/$400/ bottle). Aged 2 years, it exhibits minimal grassy notes on the nose, but has inherited some wood notes, giving vanilla, pine and spice flavours. The overall effect of the flavours is light and buttery, with bananas and cognac-like grape notes. The midpalate is pepper and spice, with the faint vestiges of herbs and grass to finish, reflecting its heritage.
To examine the effects of wood on tequila, however, the fine folks at Super Loco brought out the Fuentesca 9 Year Tequila ($30+). A sipping tequila which borrows techniques from cognac making, its long aging brings out very atypical flavours from the typical blanco tequila. Peach, cocoa, bananas and clove, with toffee as well. I get a brief whiff of something very local towards the midpalate- the sweet-herbal smell of liang teh and chrysanthenum. A spicy and astringent finish. A good sipping spirit on par with the cognacs and whiskies of the world, and completely different from your typical blancos or reposados. I’d recommend this if you enjoy your spirits neat.
Mixing it up
Of course, like almost every other spirit, mezcal and tequila can be used in cocktails. One had the opportunity to try some of Super Loco’s creations.
The Banana Infused Mezcal ($19+) was made using sliced bananas finely glazed with raw organic honey, dusted with cinnamon dehydrated, then infused in Alipus San Juan Joven Mezcal. It has a distinct roast banana flavour that puts one in mind of a Brazillian churrascaria. There’s a slightly starchy. banana taste upfront, before the smoky herb taste of the mezcal is brought forward. It’s well mellowed by this point, so the drink is quite pleasant, though not particularly distinctive.
The Peach Infused Mezcalita ($19+) is another thing though. The infusion was made using peaches, bourbon vanilla, hibiscus, rose hip peel, apple, rooibos, cinnamon, rose petals, almonds and marigold petals, with the Alipus San Juan Joven Mezcal again used as the base. The infusion is then combined with fresh squeezed lime and house made cinnamon clove agave. One found the drink very delicious. Peach dominates, but citrus fruitiness and spice all come up in the middle, with herb and vanilla forming the backbone.
Mezcal Negroni ($19+). The classics are often the best, and if it’s not the best, this one is at least damned good. The cocktail is obviously herbal, as you would expect from a negroni, but with extra punch from the mezcal’s spicy and smoky notes. These notes do not overwhelm, but enhance. This particular rendition is very smooth, thanks to it being batch made in an earthen pot. then left to mellow.
Summing it all up
If you haven’t already fallen in love with mezcal and tequila, one recommends that you give it a chance. They have a distinct flavour that is at once unmistakable and somehow addictive. If you’re looking to explore the spirits on your old, you can consider going down to Super Loco; with 80 different tequilas, mezcals and raicillas, there’s a great range of options to choose from. Pair them with some Mexican food for excellent results.
If you’re interested in learning more about tequila and mezcal themselves, Super Loco Customs House also offers masterclasses. We suggest the Agave Spirits Essentials, which is a crash course into the world of agave spirits. Each class starts at $90+ per person and lasts for about 1.5 hours.
Super Loco Customs House
70 Collyer Quay
#01-04
Singapore 049323
Contact Number: +65 6532 2090
http://www.super-loco.com/customs-house
Mon – Fri: 12pm – 12am, Saturdays: 5pm – 12am
